Travelogue

Swimming in "Big Mac"Anyone that has read any of our previous trips will know that Lake McConaughy is another one of our favorite stepping stones on our treks across the U.S. We had first it in 2001 (thanks to the National Geographic Guide to the State Parks of the U.S.) and have been back 5 or 6 times since.

It's hardly off route when traveling west on Route 80, and it's really a very lovely stop.

The lake, or more correctly reservoir, is really quite pretty--beautiful aquamarine water surrounded by miles of sandy shoreline that you can drive your RV on and camp for the night. Although we have done that in the past, there was no way we were going to attempt that with our caravan. Instead I had reserved in advance two campsites in the Little Thunder, a developed campground on asphalt along the lake’s northern shore. Also, it was extremely hot, so the ability to plug into an electrical outlet and run the a/c was a big plus.

It was already late afternoon when we arrived, so we quickly filled a cooler, grabbed our gear, and headed down to the beach, just a short walk from our campsite.

Frisbee "Beer Pong"It wasn’t long before the boys roped me into playing a game. “It’s a simple game,” they explained. All that was needed were 2 tall sticks stuck into the ground about 10 yards apart, 2 red solo cups placed over the tops of each of the sticks, a Frisbee, and a cooler of beer. I soon learned that the cooler of beer was really the only piece of equipment that mattered. It was sort of beer pong without the ping pong table. Basically, there were two teams – me and Tommy vs. Andrew and Celeste, while Herb looked on skeptically about the wisdom of this game. The object was to throw the Frisbee and hit the other team’s red cup. If we did, they had to drink some beer; if we didn’t, we had to. I wasn’t sure which outcome I was looking for – it was pretty hot out. If the Frisbee didn’t hit the cup and the other team caught it, then the team that threw it had to drink – or something like that.

I was finally at that point in life where I was playing drinking games with my sons. I guess that was a good thing. At least they still wanted to play with me. It was fun, and a refreshing swim afterwards made it even more so.

Enjoying Andrew's Annie’s Mac, Cheese, and Tuna DinnerSince I had reserved and paid for two campsites, we decided that Andrew and Celeste should leave the comforts of the motorhome and set up their tent on the adjacent site. This would at least mean that Tommy didn’t have to spend the night on the floor wedged between the refrigerator and the dinette.

Andrew was our chef that evening and did wonders with Annie’s Mac and Cheese and tuna, and Celeste did her magic with a salad.
As always, Lake McConaughy had been a fun stop, but this time leaving it felt different – sadder. Now that we would be leaving the motorhome stored on the West Coast, we wouldn’t be making those long treks across the U.S. anymore, and we wouldn’t be passing by good old Lake McConaughy. I always have a tough time with “last times.” It was like saying goodbye to a dear old friend.

Description

Relaxing on the beach after "Frisbee Pong"Lake McConaughy, nicknamed "Big Mac," is the largest reservoir in Nebraska. It is located just a few miles off Interstate 80 near the Colorado border. The reservoir, which is over 20 miles long and 4 miles wide when at full capacity, was formed on the Platte River by the Kingsley Dam. The lake has over 100 mile of white-sand beaches along its shore line.

To Nebraskans, the main attraction of Lake McConaughy is water activities--swimming, boating, windsurfing, skiing, and world-class fishing. Trophy size catfish, walleye, stripers, bass, and trout have been caught in "Big Mac."

The park has 200 tent and RV sites. However, most people choose to primitive camp right on the beach at the water's edge. Camping is on a first-come first-serve basis.

Travelogue

Biking to Beach at Lake Anita - AJGLake Anita State Park has come to be one of our stepping stones as we trek back and forth across the country—kind of a reliable and comfortable old friend. Situated just a short distance off I80 in western Iowa, Lake Anita is within 2 days striking distance from our home in New Jersey – that is if you aren’t stopping in every other state for a car repair. Okay, so this year things were a little rougher, so Lake Anita was night 3 rather than night 2 on our cross country trek.

As in every year passed, we arrived with only about two hours of sunlight left in the day – just enough to get some much needed exercise after a full day of just sitting.

The first order of business was finding a campsite, and I felt pretty sure that our motorhome plus 3 cars put us in the 2 campsite category. However, after our second pass through the campground looking for two nice sites next to each other down by the lake, the campground host stopped us and said we were welcome to all squeeze on one campsite if we could fit. The result was a modern day version of Conestoga wagons circling for the evening after a long, hard day on the trail – not too far off from the way we felt.

Andrew and Celeste at Lake Anita SunsetOne of the things I like best about Lake Anita is that unlike most state parks that we have been to, you can actually camp right on the lake and even swim in it if you choose. The beach is on the other side of the lake from the campground, but easily accessible via the lovely 5-mile trail that circles the lake.

We quickly donned our bathing suits and hopped on our bikes for an evening ride. It really was much fun. It felt so exhilarating to be out of the RV and soaring through space under our own volition. Just like Herb used to do in years past, Andrew kept peddling ahead and jumping off his bike to take our pictures as we approached.

Andrew and Celeste Preparing Gourmet DinnerOnce on the other side of the lake, we stopped at the beach for a quick swim, before continuing back to throw together dinner. Actually, with Celeste along, dinner is never just thrown together, but rather an event to be enjoyed both aesthetically and socially. I have never seen anyone enjoy slicing and dicing vegetables with such devotion and skill. It was like having our own private chef along. It was also nice, and somewhat surprising, to see how Andrew had become so capable and enthusiastic about his role in the dinner preparation.

Fortunately, the weather and the mosquitoes cooperated, and we were able to have dinner outside rather than being cramped in the ever-shrinking RV.

Sunset over the lake was spectacular as always. In our 5 times here, I don’t think there has ever been a bad one yet.

Description

Modern Day Conestoga WagonsLake Anita State Park is located in southwest Iowa about 5 miles south of Interstate 80. The park, which contains a beautiful 171-acre artificial lake, is very popular for swimming, fishing and boating.

There is a campground with 144 sites, all within easy access of the lake.

Travelogue

Lolo ready for a Chicken FightThree hours of driving was about all we wanted to do after starting so late in the day, but it at would put a few more miles under our belt so that the next day’s drive to Lake Anita in Iowa wouldn’t be so grueling. The always handy Woodall Guide helped me find a KOA with a pool just outside of Indianapolis and not too far off of I70. We usually like to get into camp by no later than 6:30, so that we have a chance to relax and have a nice dinner. Also, I thought the pool sounded pretty good on such a hot day.

The pool was fun. Somehow Tommy convinced me to stand on his shoulders and take on Andrew and Celeste in a chicken fight. I am definitely getting too old for this, but as long as the boys think of me as young enough to do something as stupid as this, I wasn’t about to change their minds. I must say that being around them always makes me feel about 20 years younger.

Kids and Celeste Sleeping in RV KitchenStorm clouds were moving in, so we went back to our campsite so that Andrew and Celeste could set up their tent before the rain started. This was to be our first night of camping, and the plan for the trip was Andrew and Celeste would camp in a tent, and Tommy would sleep on the dinette bed. The bed over the cab was out of commission due to the tons of stuff we were transporting cross country. In fact, to make matters worse, much of their stuff was spilling over into the main part of the RV. Celeste had a yoga block the size of a small coffee table and Tommy had a computer case equally as large. The evening ritual included lugging these items into the driver and passenger seat of the motorhome, so that we could at least maneuver around the RV, which seemed to be shrinking in size as each day passed.

Our outdoor dining was cut short by mosquitoes and the threat of rain, so we moved inside. It was kind of cozy, so much so that Andrew and Celeste decided it would be nicer to sleep in the RV too. That began the new sleeping arrangement – Andrew and Celeste mushed on the dinette and Tommy (always the good sport) on the floor between the dinette and the refrigerator. This was going to be a very long trip.

Description

Caravan at Rest StopThe Indianapolis KOA is a commercial campground right off I40 with a nice pool and pleasant sites.

Travelogue

Andrew's wounded Honda CivicThis was it -- the final drive of the motorhome out of the driveway. From this point on it would live on the West Coast, as would the boys. Tommy had just graduated from Williams College and was headed to Seattle to work for Microsoft. Andrew had just graduated from the Yale Graduate School of Forestry and Environmental Studies and was headed to San Francisco to follow up on some job leads. Along with us this journey, we also had Andrew’s girlfriend Celeste, who like Tommy had also just graduated from Williams and was going to work for the San Francisco city government.

Spirits were high, as well as emotions. This after all had been their home for their entire lives and now they were leaving the nest, and not just a few towns away, but to the opposite coast. Boy, this was going to be a tough one.

The Caravan arrives at Jim and Bev'sWe were only about 3 hours into the trip before Andrew had his first breakdown – not him, but his car. They were slightly ahead of us and called from a rest area that their alternator belt had ripped apart and flew somewhere onto the highway. Andrew was unfortunately familiar with alternator belts because of a recent journey to Savannah, Georgia where his air conditioner compressor decided to break, resulting in many lost hours and dollars. Obviously, the $800 they sunk into that repair was money thrown to the wind, as here we were again with the same problem.

Things were getting pretty tense and we had about another 2,800 miles of family fun to look forward to. Our first trip photos were of the tow truck bringing the poor little Honda to a nearby Meineke to have the belt replaced. 4 hours and $120 later (to replace the belt), we were back on the road, headed to my brother Jim’s house in Columbus, OH. Unfortunately, our plans for a 4:00 BBQ were now significantly pushed back a few hours.

Late Night BBQAlthough the Meineke manager assured us that the air conditioning compressor was fine and that the problem was due to the belt not being tight enough, it wasn’t long before Andrew started having the same symptoms he had on his way to Georgia and again earlier today – the air conditioning cycling on and off. Apparently, this is a tell tale sign that something is seriously wrong with the air compressor. To prevent further calamities, we decided to make an appointment at a Midas shop near my brother’s house for the next morning – just to make sure everything was alright before we made the big push across the country.

We finally arrived at Jim’s around 8:30 that night, exhausted by our long, frustrating first day. Fortunately my brother and his wife are the most upbeat and fun hosts anyone could ask for, so it wasn’t long before we were relaxed and having fun.

Chef Jim does BreakfastThe next morning, we dropped the car off at Midas and asked for an estimate. We almost fell over when he said that the whole compressor had to be replaced, since Andrew had just had this done in Georgia. We had always expected that his selection of a car mechanic at midnight on I95 was probably not the wisest. Fearing more problems crossing the country, we decided to bite the bullet and pay the $1,300 for a complete redo of the air conditioning system. He assured us over and over that this would be guaranteed to solve the a/c problem and that they definitely would have no problem crossing the country in this vehicle – at least no problem stemming from the a/c system. Although unhappy about the price, I felt some sense of relief that at least we wouldn’t have to worry about the car constantly breaking down.

White the Honda was being worked on, we headed out for a family walk at the local Hoover Dam – that’s right, Ohio actually has its very own Hoover Dam, not quite as spectacular as the one in Nevada, but nice all the same.

Jimmy tried to tempt us to stay with them another night, but we were running on a pretty tight schedule and had to keep heading West. I already had push all our camping reservations back a day, as there was no way we would reach Lake Anita State Park in Iowa that night. Hopefully, we could get back on track with the revised schedule.

Around 4:00 that afternoon, we said our thank you’s and goodbyes, and pointed our caravan west, confident that our troubles were behind us.

Description

My brother's home in a suburb of Columbus, Ohio

Travelogue

Gay Head Cliffs and Lighthouse from Top of CliffsI still tend to slip and call this Gay Head, because that’s what everyone did until it was changed in 1997 to the more politically correct “Aquinnah,” which is Native American for “land under the hill.” Out of the year round population of 311 people, approximately half are members of the Wampanoag tribe that settled on the island centuries before English settlers arrived and felt the need to convert them to Christianity.

Anyone that has seen postcards or photos of Martha’s Vineyard will recognize the iconic image of Aquinnah’s dramatically colorful clay cliffs, laced with multicolor bands of red, yellow, white, and gray.

One of the best vantage points to view the cliffs is from the Gay Head Lighthouse, which sits atop the cliffs. The lighthouse is open to the public on Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings from one hour before sunset to a half hour after sunset, from the summer solstice to the fall equinox.

The approach to the lighthouse is a path lined with gift shops selling native Wampanoag wares and several take-out chowder and seafood shacks.

Moshup Beach Cliffs at High TideHowever, the best view in my opinion is from down below on Moshup Beach. Besides one visit here with the kids when they were little, we really didn’t start coming here regularly until just two years ago. When they were along, we tended to spend most of our time on the eastern end of the island in Edgartown and Chappaquiddick. But now that it pretty much is just Herb and I, we like to mix it up and spend time beaching and photographing what the Travel Channel has selected as one of the top 10 beaches in the country. Despite its uniqueness and beauty, its remote location from the more touristy parts of the island makes it much less crowded than the other public beaches on the island.

The walk along this ½-mile beach at the base of the 130-foot high cliffs is breathtaking, with crashing waves to one side and the stunningly beautiful, multicolored cliffs on the other—not to mention the creative and whimsical rock cairn art to maneuver around along the way.

Moshup Beach Red Clay RivuletIn many places, little rivulets of red clay seep out of the cliffs and flow towards the sea. In the 60s and 70s, it was a popular activity for nude sunbathers to partake in “clay baths” and cover their bodies with clay. While playing with the clay is no longer allowed, the nude sunbathing tradition lives on at the far end of the beach.

For the last two or three summers, Herb and I have driven the RV down to the western end of the island (up-island as locals say) and parked in the big town lot at the end of State Road. It is $15 for the full day. From the parking lot, the Moshup Trail is a 10-minute, very pretty walk to the beach.

Herb and his "Beach System"Since the walk is pretty far, we tend to bring our stuff for the whole day—beach chairs, books, lunch, cocktails, and much camera gear. Herb has developed a “system” for carrying all this stuff. He starts with one of his old backpacks, straps two wind guards to each side, hangs the beach chairs on the wind guard poles, straps his tripod to the top, and stuffs everything else inside. I follow like a queen.

We like to spend the entire day here, swimming and reading, and waiting for the low light at the end of the day to paint the cliffs in even brighter hues. That’s when the cameras come out.

Last summer, Andrew and his girlfriend Celeste interned in Boston, so they popped down to the island to join us on the weekends. We had been bringing Andrew to the island once or twice a year since he was 3 months old, so it was nice to show him something new to add to his list of favorite spots on the island.

Andrew and Celeste at Moshup Beach - LEGAnother favorite spot in Aquinnah that we have been coming to for years is Lobsterville Beach. Its location on the northwest side of the island, on the Vineyard Sound, makes it a perfect place to watch the sun set over the water, which we have done at least once every year since the 80s. The problem, however, is parking, as there are only 8 non-resident spots at the end of West Basin Road. This is particularly challenging with an RV, but we do manage to fit with the back of the RV hanging over the bushes.

During our “foolish youth” phase, we used to come here to BBQ and make a bonfire on the beach. If I remember correctly, there might have been some liquor involved as well. On one of these bonfire nights, we were approached by a town official, who quite nicely suggested that our fire was illegal. After chatting with him awhile, he generously told us to continue with our fun and to tell anyone that bothered us that “Chief Taylor said it was okay.” Only later did we realize that this was James Taylor’s younger brother. James Taylor, as well as his ex-wife Carly Simon, live on the island.

Elizabeth Islands SkyWhile not particularly great for swimming, because of the rocks and seaweed, it is an excellent spot to fish for blues, flounder, and striped bass. You can fish along the 2-mile beach or from the rock jetty that is just across the channel from the more-crowded Menemsha jetty. We have caught fish here for years. One particular favorite Gaidus fish story was when Andrew, who was about 12 at the time, caught a flounder. It was large enough for us to call it dinner. Unfortunately, Andrew had already named it Alfred and developed a relationship with it. It wasn’t one of our easier dinners.

Another time, the boys designed a seagull trap. They dug a hole on the beach, large enough to hold a small boy. Then one of them would get in the hole, and the other would cover it with a beach blanket with chips scattered on it. When a seagull landed to eat the chips, the one in the hole would leap up and try to grab the poor unsuspecting gull. They got pretty close one time. I am not sure who was more scared, the bird or Andrew and Tommy.

Fly Fishing Lobsterville BeachAlthough the fishing here is really good, the main draw for us are the spectacular sunsets over the Sound. We have also spent many evenings watching the same view from the Menemsha beach, just a stone’s throw (but a 7.5-mile drive) across the channel. Because of its easier accessibility, the Menemsha Beach is mobbed for sunset, while we often have the Lobsterville one practically to ourselves. The other nice thing about being on the Lobsterville side is that it is really nice to look at and photograph the picturesque fishing village of Menemsha from across the channel.

During the summer, a small bike ferry transports cyclists the short distance between Lobsterville and Menemsha. One year, the boys and I took our bikes across on this ferry and then rode the 7.5 miles back to Lobsterville.

Tommy and Gay Head Cliffs during our Circumnavigation of the VineyardAnother great way to explore the Vineyard is kayaking on one of its many ponds, so a few years ago Herb built a rack for the top of the RV, where he could place two kayaks between the vents and air conditioning unit. It really is rough getting them up and down from there. Thankfully, Herb is in good enough shape to climb up the back ladder with them. Two years ago, we decided to bring the boys’ small perception kayaks to the Vineyard with us. They are pretty wide and slow, but we thought they would be fun to play around with anyway.

I bought a really good book called Exploring Martha’s Vineyard by Bike, Foot, and Kayak (see our BOOKS tab), which gave us some great ideas as to where to kayak. One day at Lobsterville, we decided to launch the kayaks in Menemsha Pond and paddle all the way across and then through Nashaquitsa Pond and on to Stonewall Pond, about a 3 to 4 hour paddle. This was a pretty good length voyage, which took us from the Vineyard Sound in the north to a beach on the Atlantic Ocean in the South.

Lolo and Boys at Lobsterville BeachEach of the ponds was very different. Menemsha Pond is pretty busy with boat traffic and quite open and windy, making it a bit of a difficult paddle. However, it is quite scenic and allows you to get up close to Menemsha’s Dutcher Dock. Nashaquitsa Pond is quite a bit smaller and more protected and has lots of coves to explore. Stonewall Pond is even smaller. To get to it we had to paddle under the South Road bridge. The really cool thing about Stonewall Pond is that you can get to a path to Stonewall Beach on the Atlantic Ocean. I read about this is my guide book, so I thought that that gave me permission to ignore the Private No Trespassing signs to check it out. Herb chickened out and stayed with the kayaks. He really missed out, because I got to experience the musical sounds emanating from the surf crashing over the rocks piled up along the base of the cliff. It was mesmerizing.

The way back was tiring as the wind had shifted against us, but all in all it was a fabulous journey and a very different way of exploring the island. Kayaks definitely do allow you to get into nooks and crannies that would otherwise be inaccessible. There was so much more to do on this island now that kayaks gave us access to the ponds.

Description

Moshup Beach View of CliffsThe town of Aquinnah is located on the western end of Martha’s Vineyard (referred to as “up-island”), bordered by the Vineyard sound to the north and the Atlantic Ocean to the west and south. It is home to a year round population of 311, half of which are members of the Wampanoag tribe.
According to the Wampanoag, Martha’s Vineyard, which they called Noepe, was formed by the giant Moshup and that they arrived on the island by floating on an ice floe from the far North. Moshup then taught his people how to fish and catch whales. The character Tashtego in Herman Melville’s novel Moby Dick was an Aquinnah harpooner.

Tacking Across Vineyard SoundThe Wampanoag inhabited Martha’s Vineyard for centuries before Thomas Mayhew, Jr. arrived with a group of settlers in 1642. Mayhew found the Wampanoag to be a courteous and friendly people. He treated them with respect, learned their language, opened the first school on the island to teach them English, and converted many of them to Christianity.

In 1870, the Wampanoag land was incorporated as Gay Head. In 1987, the Federal Bureau of Indian Affairs recognized the Wampanoag tribal council as an official tribal government. The tribal lands encompass 485 acres, 325 of which are common lands, including the Gay Head Cliffs, Herring Creek, and Lobsterville. In 1997, the name of the town was changed from Gay Head to Aquinnah, which means “land under the hill.”
Aquinnah is best known for its dramatically colorful clay cliffs, painted in red, yellow, white, and gray. The cliffs, which are considered sacred to the Wampanoag, are protected, and it is forbidden to climb them or remove the clay.

Lolo of Moshup BeachOne of the best vantage points to view the cliffs is from the Gay Head Lighthouse. The lighthouse was opened in 1799 to guide ships through the treacherous waters between the Gay Head Cliffs and the Elizabeth Islands. In 1844 it was moved back 75 feet from the edge of the eroding bluff to its current location. Today the lighthouse is overseen by the Martha’s Vineyard Museum and is open to the public on Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings from one hour before sunset to a half hour after sunset, from the summer solstice to the fall equinox.

The beach below the cliffs is called Moshup Beach, named after the mythical giant sachem that created the island. While good for swimming, in that the water here is warmer than most of the island, the main draw to this ½-mile white, sandy beach is its incredible scenery. The beach lies at the base of the 130-foot high stunningly beautiful and multicolored Gay Head cliffs, named for its “gay” brightly colored red, brown, yellow, and tan striations. Strolling the beach requires maneuvering over the numerous rocks tossed back and forth by the tides, providing creative beach goers with a limitless supply of materials to build creative rock cairns and towers.

Moshup Beach Whale Rock?In many parts of the beach, rivulets of red clay seep out of the cliffs and flow towards the ocean. In the 1960’s and 70’s this became a popular spot for nude sunbathers to partake in “clay baths.” Today that is no longer allowed. However, there is still a section of the beach that is clothing optional.
Moshup Beach is annually selected by the Travel Channel as one of the top 10 beaches in the nation. Despite its uniqueness and beauty, its remote location from the more touristy parts of the island makes it much less crowded than the other public beaches on the island.

The parking area for the beach is located in the town lot at the end of State Road. It is $15 for the full day. From the parking lot, the Moshup Trail is a 10 minute walk to the beach. For bicyclists, there are bike racks located adjacent to the beach.

Herb on Lobsterville JettyAbout 4 miles from the Gay Head lighthouse at the end of West Basin Road on the northwest side of the island is Lobsterville Beach, a secluded 2-mile public beach on the calm shores of Vineyard Sound. It is located across a narrow channel, a stone’s throw away from the more highly visited Menemsha village (although the drive there is 7.5 miles). During the summer, a small bike ferry transports cyclists the short distance between Lobsterville and Menemsha.

Over a hundred years ago, Lobsterville was the most important fishing village on the island. Ships from the mainland sailed into this harbor to purchase lobster and fish. Today, Menemsha has taken its place as the island’s primary fishing port, and Lobsterville village no longer exists.

Lobsterville Beach SunsetToday Lobsterville is a place for beaching, birding, fishing, and just getting away from the summer crowds. Although swimming is allowed, the rocks and seaweed trapped in the cove make it a bit difficult. Lobsterville’s biggest draw, however, is fishing for flounder, striped bass, bonita, and blues, as dozens of fisherman line the rock jetty just across the channel from their Menemsha competition doing the same.

Since Lobsterville is located on the west end of the island, it is a wonderful place to watch the sunset over the water. It’s fun to contrast the quiet viewing that takes place here with the party-like atmosphere of the sunset revelers across the channel on Menemsha Beach. The views of this quaint picturesque village from the Lobsterville jetty make it a great place for photographers as well.

The small parking lot for this beach can accommodate only 8 cars.

There are 2 public beaches in Aquinnah:

• Moshup Beach – located on the Atlantic Ocean at the base of the Gay Head Cliffs
• Lobsterville Beach – located on the Vineyard Sound at the end of West Basin Road

Kayaking opportunities:

• Menemsha – Nashaquitsa – Stonewall Ponds
• Squibnocket Pond

Travelogue

Nashaquitsa Pond DinghiesThe town of Chilmark is probably one of the most beautiful on the island, with its long rambling stone fences and rolling hills overlooking the sea. It’s more of a residential and agricultural community than a touristy one, so we really haven’t done too much in Chilmark, with the exception of driving through it and appreciating its lovely scenery and feeling a bit envious towards anyone fortunate enough to own a home here. Actually, you don’t really see the houses – just the long winding driveways leading towards the sea. It’s the home of the rich and the famous and the place where presidents come to relax.

One of my favorite viewpoints on the drive through Chilmark is along the South Road. Just about a mile past Beetlebung corner, there is a bridge, with Nashaquitsa Pond on the right and Stonewall Pond on the left. I describe a kayaking trip we took on these two ponds in the Aquinnah stop. About a tenth of a mile after the bridge, the road heads up a hill. Halfway up the hill, there is a wide spot on the side of the road called Quitsa Overlook. From there you can look out over Nashaquitsa and Menemsha ponds and beyond to Menemsha and the Vineyard Sound. One evening when returning from Moshup Beach, Herb and I were lucky enough to catch a beautiful sunset over the ponds.

Motor Yacht Banjo by MoonlightMenemsha is one of my favorite places on the island, and one where we have spent many wonderful times. This quaint little fishing village is so picture postcard perfect that it seems more fake than real. In fact, it was used as a stage set during the filming of the movie Jaws.

I love walking along Dutcher Dock watching the fishermen unload their daily catch of tuna, swordfish, halibut, striped bass, bluefish, and lobster from their weather-beaten fishing boats. It’s a great place to pick up some very fresh seafood at one of the fish markets along the dock.

Nashaquitsa Pond SunsetIts location on the northwest part of the island makes Menemsha a perfect place to watch the sunset over the waters of Vineyard Sound. Before we began bringing the RV to the island, we used to come to Menemsha at least once each trip to watch the sunset. Every night is a party in Menemsha as crowds gather on the small swimming beach to watch and cheer as the sun dips below the horizon.

Since we started bringing the RV to the island, we have switched our sunset viewing to Lobsterville Beach, just across the channel from Menemsha. Menemsha is just too crowded to find parking for the RV. I kind of like this better because this way we can gaze at and admire Menemsha from across the channel.

Over the years, we also have done a lot of fishing from the Menemsha rock jetty, which is usually pretty crowded with fisherman trying to land a blue or striper. We have had our fair share of success over the years with many a blue or striper at the end of our lines.

Herb with Nice Bluefish caught on Light Tackle - LEGI remember coming to the Vineyard once in October before Herb and I were married. We came down to Menemsha to watch the sunset and do some fishing. We didn’t have much money then, so we were going to cook dinner on Herb’s camping stove on the jetty. I was not exactly a very good cook then – not that I am that great now – but I was particularly inexperienced at the time. I did not understand the concept of how much rice expands when you cook it. Before I knew it, I had enough rice to feed a family of 10 and it was bubbling over the pot onto the jetty. I think that is when Herb realized he wanted to marry me. Somebody had to do it.

There was about a six-year period where we used to bring our 20-foot Grady White to the island with us. On two of our circumnavigations of the island, we cruised through the channel to explore Menemsha Pond. A couple of times, we anchored and swam to the Lobsterville shoreline where an old dilapidated and abandoned fishing boat lay on its side. We later found out that this was a boat named Orca used in the filming of Jaws. There were two Orcas used in the movie, one for the motor scenes and one for the sinking scenes. This one, as might be obvious, was the one used for the sinking scenes, and it was left behind after the filming was complete. It was there for quite a few years, but I think it is gone now.

Herb and Andrew watching Menemsha Sunset - LEGMenemsha is also home to the iconic Home Port Restaurant, whose portions are large enough to keep you fed for an entire week. Before RVing days, we always made it a point of coming here at least once on each visit. It’s not a fancy place, but rather a casual waterfront setting with a nautical feel. It has great seafood and no liquor license, so be sure to bring your own.

We have fond memories of bringing the kids here ever since they were babies. The place is noisy enough to not worry too much about kid behavior. However, one time Tommy, at the age of 2, managed to break through the noise and the chaos and shock the table of elderly women behind us. We had provided him with a blue marker to color the placemat and keep him busy. Without us seeing, he dipped his marker in his water glass, painted his entire mouth blue, stuck his fingers in the mouth stretching his lips apart, and yelled “Look at me, Look at me!!” to the blue-haired ladies behind us. They were not amused. We, however, were and tried our best to not burst out laughing as Herb carried Tommy out of the room to give him a talking to.

Anyway, I highly recommend the Home Port Restaurant.

Kids Walking the Menemsha JettyOne summer I decided to not just stick to our usual spots on the island – although they were really good – but to venture out and discover some new ones. That’s when I bought a book called Exploring Martha’s Vineyard by Bike, Foot, and Kayak. It has served me well and brought us to some really cool places, such as the Great Rock Bight Preserve on the northern Vineyard Sound side of Chilmark. Since the RV is not a good vehicle for exploring on the island, we used our bikes to get here from the campground.

The Great Rock Bight Preserve is a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank property. The Land Bank is a very cool concept. Every time a real estate transfer occurs on the island, 2% of the sale goes into a fund which is used to acquire and manage open space for the public’s enjoyment. There are dozens of beautiful spots, some very tiny, some quite large, scattered throughout the island that have been obtained by the Land Bank. You can pick up a map of Land Bank properties at their office on Main Street in Edgartown.

English Family on Great RockAnyway, the 28.5-acre Great Rock Bight Preserve is an excellent example of one of these Land Bank properties that have been set aside for public enjoyment. It is located on the north side of the North Road, about 4 miles west of its intersection with State Road in West Tisbury, which was a pretty good, and hilly, ride from the campground. Once we arrived, we locked our bikes up at the trailhead and set out on the .8-mile Yellow Trail to the beach. The trail brought us to a bluff above the beach with tremendous views of Vineyard Sound and the Elizabeth Islands, as well as the “great rock” standing guard over the cove. We took the steep trail down to the beach, which for now we had totally to ourselves. My biggest regret was that I did not wear a bathing suit under my cycling shorts, because the water was inviting, and the rock would have been a great destination to swim to. Instead, we had to settle for watching another better-equipped family from London arrive, strip down to their bathing suits, and swim out to the rock. We even took a family photo of them standing out on the rock. That was supposed to be my family picture. Next time I would plan better.

Chilmark also shares Menemsha, Nashaquitsa, and Stonewall Ponds with the town of Aquinnah. One summer, Herb and I paddled our kayaks across all three of them for a really wonderful journey, which I have described in the Aquinnah stop, because technically we began it from Lobsterville Beach in Aquinnah.

Description

Nashaquitsa Pond BoathouseChilmark is a small, rural community located on the western end (up-island) of Martha’s Vineyard. It is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean on the south, Aquinnah on the west, the Vineyard Sound in the north, and West Tisbury to the east.

Less touristy than the rest of the island, it is primarily a residential and agricultural community. With its rolling hills, rambling stone walls, and tall, leafy trees, it is more similar to a Vermont town than the other seaside towns on the island.

The center of town consists of a small schoolhouse, originally a one-room school built in 1850, a tiny post office, and a public library, which often serves as a gathering place for Chilmark’s 650 year-round residents. There is also a love 1843 church and the town hall, built in 1897. Another gathering spot for locals and summer visitors alike is the Chilmark Store, just down the road past Beetlebung Corner. Like Alley’s in West Tisbury, the rocking chairs on the porch are a place to gather for getting the local news and gossip.

Menemsha Coast Guard StationChilmark was settled by sheep farmers and mariners 300 years ago. A visible reminder of this past is the long stone walls running alongside the roads and through meadows and woods that were once fields for grazing.

Earning a livelihood from the sea also lives on in the quaint fishing village of Menemsha, where weathered fishing shacks, nets, buoys, and lobster pots line Dutcher Dock. There is much hustle and bustle in this active port as fisherman in big rubber boots unload their daily catch of tuna, swordfish, halibut, striped bass, bluefish, and lobster from their weather-beaten fishing vessels tied up at the docks. A walk down Dutcher Dock might seem familiar to those who have seen the movie Jaws, as this working fishing harbor served as a stage set for the film.

Lolo on JettyMenemsha Village lies on the eastern shore of Menemsha Pond where it flows out into Vineyard Sound. There is a small beach on the calm waters of Vineyard Sound that is great for families with children. Also, popular is surf casting on the rock jetty into the channel leading towards Menemsha Pond. However, what brings most people to Menemsha is the chance to eat some freshly cooked seafood and then watch the spectacular sunset over Vineyard Sound. During the summer, a small bike ferry transports cyclists the short distance across the channel between Menemsha and Lobsterville.

Dad Fishing Lobsterville at Sunset - AJGChilmark shares several ponds, some of which it shares with neighboring towns: Chilmark Pond in the southeast part of town, Squibnocket and Menemsha Ponds to the southwest (shared with Aquinnah) and Tisbury Great Pond to the east (shared with West Tisbury). The only road to Aquinnah passes between Squibnocket and Menemsha Ponds, which are only 1,100 feet apart.

The town has several sanctuaries and preserves, the largest being the Menemsha Hills Reservation, a 211-acre preserve managed by the Trustees of the Reservation. It is located on the north side of North Road, one mile east of Menemsha Village. Three miles of hiking trails lead through wetlands and woodland groves and a climb to the top of the 308-foot Prospect Hill, the second highest point on the Vineyard.

Young Andrew at Menemsha BeachAnother interesting public property in Chilmark is the Great Rock Bight Preserve, a 28.5-acre Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank property with hiking trails and swimming at a secluded sandy cove on Vineyard Sound. The preserve gets its name from the “great rock” located a short, swimmable distance from the beach. The preserve is located on the north side of North Road, 3.8 miles west of its intersection with State Road in West Tisbury. From the parking area, one can go left and take the .5-mile Yellow Trail directly to the beach, or for the more adventurous hiker, the 1.5-mile Marl Pond Loop heads right from the parking area, through grasslands and past two ponds before meeting up with the Yellow Trail towards the beach. From the bluff above the beach there are tremendous views of Vineyard Sound and the Elizabeth Islands, as well as the “great rock” standing guard over the cove. A steep trail leads down to the swimming beach.

The Chilmark Pond Preserve is a Martha's Vineyard Landbank property with walking trails and a canoe/kayak launch site that allows for access to Lower Chilmark Pond. There is also a 200-feet beach accessible by canoe or kayak. A boardwalk and stairs lead from the pond to the beach.

There are 3 public beaches in Chilmark:

• Menemsha Public Beach – gentle beach on the Vineyard Sound next to Menemsha Harbor
• Chilmark Pond Preserve – 200-foot beach accessible by canoe or kayak
• Great Rock Bight Preserve – located off the North Road. The trail to the beach is long and steep and has stairs.

Kayaking opportunities:

• Chilmark Pond
• Menemsha – Nashaquitsa – Stonewall Ponds
• Squibnocket Pond

Travelogue

Lolo at Alley's General StoreWest Tisbury has a very different feel to it than the other towns on the island. It’s more similar to a small New England farming community than the other seaside towns on the island. The Old Grange Hall holds a farmers’ and craft market every Wednesday afternoon and Saturday morning, and the new Agricultural Hall is the site of the annual Vineyard County fair held in the third week of August. I have never been to it, but it is definitely on my bucket list to do so some day. If I were to live on the island, I could most easily picture living here.

Usually, West Tisbury is not a destination for us, but rather a place we pass through on our way to Lobsterville, Menemsha, or Moshup Beach. That being said, we do have some favorite spots, the first of which is Alley’s General Store and the Field Gallery across the street. Alley’s is kind of a gathering place for locals to sit on the porch and get the day’s news and gossip. The store itself is pretty basic in terms of supplies – a few grocery items, some beach stuff, and lots of nosh. When they were little, the boys used to love to stop and shop here.

Family with Aggy Imitating Field Gallery ArtThe Field Gallery, with its whimsical statues of women dancing, just across the street is one of my favorite stops. A few summers after my father passed away, we used to bring my 80+ year old mom to the island with us. Probably some of my all-time favorite photos of all times are the ones of my mother imitating the poses of these statues.

Also, one of the largest and nicest galleries on the island is the Granary Gallery at the Red Barn on Old County Road. We try to stop there every year now and look at their very fine collection of paintings, sculptures, and photographs. If I had unlimited money, I would definitely decorate my house with many pieces from this must-see gallery.

Lolo in Granary GalleryLike most of the towns on the island, West Tisbury also has its share of refuges and reservations. One of the ones we discovered a few years back is Sepiessa Point, a Land Bank property on the Tisbury Great Pond. Much of the roads on the island, especially those leading to the ponds, are dirt, so the RV is not a very practical vehicle for exploring. That is why the bikes have become such an important part of our Vineyard explorations. Sepiessa has a 2 ½ mile bike trail that leads to a beautiful sandy beach on the pond, shallow, but still nice for swimming. You just have to be careful about stepping on a sharp oyster shell, of which the pond has many. Across the pond you can see the ocean side barrier beach. Twice a year a breach is created to allow salt water to flow into the pond because oysters need salt water to breed.

For those interested in history, Christiantown is a very interesting place to visit. Like many other hidden gems on the island, its location at the end of a dirt road made the bikes the best choice for getting there. It’s not actually all that easy to find. To get there, when traveling west on the State Road, turn right onto Indian Hill Road, follow that for ½ a mile, and then turn right onto the dirt Christiantown Road. There may not be a street sign, but only a Private Road sign – very inviting. Follow that for another .6 miles to a parking lot.

Lamberts Cove RivuletYou’ll know you’re there when you see the tiny Mayhew Chapel, named after the Reverend Thomas Mayhew Jr., who was instrumental in converting the Wampanoag tribe to Christianity. Hence the name Christiantown, which was established in 1659 when Sachem Josias Keteanummin donated a square-mile plot of land to be used as a the first native American Christian settlement. The small wooden Mayhew Chapel is only open on Sundays, but you can peek through the windows at its tiny altar and six pews. The chapel was named after the Reverend Thomas Mayhew Jr., who was instrumental in converting the Wampanoags to Christianity.

Behind the chapel there is a short trail leading through the Christiantown Woods, where you will pass the remnants of farms that occupied this land centuries ago.

Just across the road from the chapel is a small hill. Follow that to a small burial ground, where the remains of the Wampanoag converts lie. The grave markers contain no names or information about who is buried below.

Indian Hill Road leads back out to Lamberts Cove Road and to what is one of the most beautiful beaches on the island. James Taylor and Carly Simon co-wrote a song called Terra Nova, and at the end of it she sings about what has come to be known as “Lambert’s Cove.”

Out of the west of Lambert's Cove
There's a sail out in the sun
And I'm on board though very small
I've come home to stop yearning

Burn off the haze around the shore
Turn off the crazy way I feel
I'll stay away from you no more
I've come home to stop yearning

Lamberts Cove BeachUnfortunately, only residents of the town of West Tisbury, of which Carly Simon is one, are allowed access to this beautiful beach during the summer. The rest of us have to wait until the off season to not be chased off its pristine shore. We often do come to the Vineyard in late September, so we chose one fine sunny Indian summer day to enjoy this lovely beach. My favorite part of the beach, and the place in which I and a few other sea birds chose to take a dip, was the little rivulet that flows back and forth between the James Pond and Vineyard Sound. It truly is a place worth singing about.

Description

Field Gallery Art with Lazy Daze - LEGWest Tisbury is located in the center of the island. It is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the south, Chilmark to the west, Vineyard sound to the northwest, Tisbury to the northeast, and Edgartown to the east. Along with its neighbors Chilmark and Aquinnah, it is considered to be up-island.

Having no port, West Tisbury is more similar to a typical New England farming community than to the other seaside towns on the island. It is the agricultural heartland of the island. The old Grange Hall on the corner of Music Street hosts a farmers’ and craft market on Wednesday afternoons and Saturday mornings. The new Agricultural Hall, one mile from the old hall, is the site of one of the Vineyard’s most popular events, the annual County Fair held in the third week of August.

Tommy at Llama FarmTime seems to move a bit slower in this traditional farming community. Locals frequently gather on the porch of Alley’s General Store to get the day’s news, drink coffee, and glare at the tourists. Fans of Cynthia Riggs’ mystery stories will recognize many places in town from her books, including the tiny one-room police station on Mill Pond.

West Tisbury is home to several Vineyard artists, many of which have galleries in their homes. The Field Gallery, with its whimsical dancing statues by artist Tom Maley, is located across the street from Alley’s General Store. One of the largest and nicest galleries on the island is the Granary Gallery at the Red Barn on Old County Road.

Field Gallery SculptureThe town also has several refuges and reservations, the largest being the Long Point Wildlife Refuge just east of Tisbury Great Pond. The Refuge, which includes over 600 acres of beach, dune, and woodland, is managed by the Trustees of Reservation. It is one of the largest publicly accessible properties on the island. There are 2.1 miles of flat trails through woods and open areas that lead to an ocean-side beach.

The Cedar Tree Neck Sanctuary, a 300-acre natural habitat owned by the Sheriff’s Meadow Foundation, is located on the island’s northern shore along Vineyard Sound. Three separate trails take visitors through woods, across streams, past freshwater ponds and bogs, along rocky bluffs with scenic views, and along a beach.

Lolo reading in Lamberts Cove DuneThe Sepiessa Point Reservation is a 173.7-acre Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank property located in the town of West Tisbury on the Tisbury Great Pond. The reservation has 2.5 miles of hiking/biking trails and a half-mile-long sandy beach from which one can swim in the pond. The pond is oyster seeded, so there are sharp shells scattered along the beach and in the water. Since oysters need salt water to breed, twice a year a breach is created in the barrier beach to allow salt water to flow into the pond.

West Tisbury is also home to approximately half of the Manuel F. Correllus State Forest, which dominates the center of the island. The other half lies in Edgartown. The State Forest is described in a separate stop.

An interesting historical site in West Tisbury is the Christiantown Memorial, the site of the Mayhew Chapel and a small Indian burial ground. Christiantown was established in 1659 as the first Christian Native American village. The chapel that stands there today was built in 1829. Inside there is a tiny altar and six pews.

There are four public beaches in West Tisbury

• Long Point Wildlife Refuge Beach – located on the south shore and open to non-residents who purchase a Trustees of the Reservation sticker
• Sepiessa Point Reservation – the ocean beach can only be reached via kayak or canoe
• Uncle Seth’s Pond – small beach on a pond on Lambert’s Cove Road
• Lambert’s Cove – considered by many to be the most beautiful beach on the island. It is located off Lambert’s Cove Road and is situated on a cove off of Vineyard Sound. During the summer, only residents of West Tisbury and their guests are allowed to use the beach.

Kayaking opportunities:

• Tisbury Great Pond

Travelogue

Lolo and Herb with Booming Ben SculptureAlthough the State Forest is technically part of Edgartown and West Tisbury, I felt that it was unique enough to warrant its own stop. Its 5,100 acres take up a major part of the center of the island.

We have come to the forest many times to bike its 15 miles of trails, some of which parallel the roads, but others that take you through the heart of the forest. One time Herb and I even roller bladed the trails while the kids biked. Although the island is flat, there are quite a bit of roller coaster ups and downs along this trail.

There is even a 27-basket Frisbee golf course, located inside the forest on Barnes Road near the airport. A few years back, we bought some discs for the boys in a shop in Edgartown. For those unfamiliar with the game, it is played similar to golf, but instead of hitting a golf ball, one throws a special type of Frisbee (called a disc). The object is to get the disc into a raised basket in as few throws as possible. The other object, we soon found, was to not land a poorly thrown disc in the poison ivy that grows quite bountifully throughout the forest. It was pretty fun, but completing all 27 holes can take a very long time, so we usually choose a shortened version.

I wish I had researched the background of this state forest earlier. We have been coming to it for over 30 years, but it wasn’t until this year – when I finally decided to do a writeup on Martha’s Vineyard – that I discovered its interesting history.

The Massachusetts Department of Conservation and Recreation is working on trying to restore the park’s native ecosystem in what is one of the largest environmental restoration projects in the country. The park is part of the Atlantic coastal pine barrens ecoregions and includes grasslands, heathlands, pine barrens, and woodlands. It was originally set aside as a preserve in 1908 in an attempt to save the endangered heath hen, an eastern subspecies of the prairie chicken, which had died out in most other areas of the northeast.

The rest is a very sad story. At first things were going pretty well, and the heath hen population grew from 70 to 2,000. However, a few bad years of forest fires and severe winters reduced the population to only 12. By the next year there was only one poor male heath hen left. Okay, now here comes the really sad part. He is nicknamed Booming Ben, because he used to perch himself atop an oak tree and let out his mating call, which raises the question, “if a heath hen booms in the forest, but no female heath hen hears it, does it make a sound?” Boomer lived on another four or so years by himself before passing in 1932, making the heath hen species extinct.

I really would have liked to have known about this story earlier. From now on, I am going to do more heavy research upfront, so I can get the full enjoyment out of a stop and not just save that for my readers.

On our most recent trip to the Vineyard in 2012, we made it a mission to find the Heath Hen Sculpture put here in 2011 by the artist Todd McGrain. We found it, just out there along the path through the forest in the spot where Boomer (as Herb was now calling him) was last seen – about a 10-minute walk from Gate 18 or 19 on the West Tisbury-Edgartown Road. It certainly made me view the forest quite differently—not as just a place for recreation, but as a home to a broad range of species, some of which are quite rare.

It is really a lovely and serene place, and so different from the rest of the island. That is one thing that I definitely have to say about Martha’s Vineyard. There is so much diversity in landscapes that you can achieve a lot more variety of experiences than you would expect on a small island.

Description

"Boomer" and State Forest TrailThe Correllus State Forest is a 5,100-acre preserve in the center of Martha’s Vineyard, managed by the Department of Conservation and Recreation. Its main attraction is the 15 miles of bike paths through lovely woodlands.

The preserve was created in 1908 as a sanctuary for the endangered heath hen, an eastern subspecies of the prairie chicken, which had died out in most other areas of the northeast. At first efforts were successful and the heath hen population grew from 70 to 2,000. However, as a results of forest fires and severe winters, by 1927 there were only 12 heath hens left in the world, all in the Correllus State Forest. By the following year there was only one male heath hen left, nicknamed Booming Ben, because of the way he would sit perched atop an oak tree futiley emitting the heath hen mating call. Sadly, there were no female heath hens to hear his plea. When Booming Ben disappeared in 1932, the species that had once been a source of food for settlers from Virginia to Maine was now extinct. In June of 2011, Sculptor Todd McGrain’s Heath Hen Sculpture was dedicated and placed in the forest near where Booming Ben was last seen. The sculpture can be found by taking a 10-minute walk from Gate 18 or 19 on the West Tisbury-Edgartown Road.

In 1934 the Civilian Conservation Corps planted red pine, white pine, and spruce trees to an area that had become a sandplain grassland because of frequent fires. While the white pine and spruce trees are still flourishing, the red pine, which thrives in colder climates, is dying out. Today the forest is the focus of one of the largest environmental restoration projects in the nation as work is done to restore it to its native ecosystem.

Bicycling, hiking, or rollerblading through the state forest is a wonderful way to get away from the crowds that descend on the island during the summer months. The following is a link to the state forest’s trail map: http://www.mass.gov/dcr/parks/trails/corellus600.gif

As an added attraction is the 27-basket disc (Frisbee) golf course located inside the forest on Barnes Road near the airport. For those unfamiliar with the game, it is played similar to golf, but instead of hitting a golf ball, one throws a special type of Frisbee (called a disc). The object is to get the disc into a raised basket in as few throws as possible.

Travelogue

"Kissing Bluefish" on Avon Raft during HoneymoonFor a place so small, this tiny island off an island is so jam packed with wonderful memories that I don’t know where to start, so I guess I will start at the beginning.

The very first time I came to Martha’s Vineyard was in 1979, when Herb and I and another couple took our bikes on the Ferry and bicycled to Edgartown to spend a night at the very lovely Edgartown Inn. As we sat by the Wharf that evening, I became intrigued by the small ferry endlessly chugging back and forth across the 100 yard or so channel between Edgartown and a dark beach a stone’s throw away. Without knowing, nor for that matter caring, what lied on the other side, I turned to Herb and said, “Let’s get on the ferry.” Always the pragmatic engineer, Herb’s simple reply was, “Why?” I was very tempted to use the punch line from a chicken joke.

Herb and baby Andrew Tailgating in back of Isuzu TrooperI might not have gotten to ride the On Time Ferry that evening, but we’ve more than made up for it over the past three decades of Vineyard adventures. Also, somewhat ironically, 16 years after that first trip to the island, Herb and I got married in Edgartown and spent our first night as a married couple in that very same Edgartown Inn (more on the wedding in the Edgartown stop).

Before we bought the RV in 1999, our Suburban was our vehicle of choice, primarily because it is 4-wheel drive and can be driven on the Chappaquiddick beaches. The pass is not cheap though. Although it was probably under $100 for an annual over-sand pass back when we were buying it, it is now something like $180 for non-member, non-island residents. If you become a member of the Trustees of the Reservation, however, it is a bit cheaper. Whatever the cost, it is certainly worth it. Some of my fondest Vineyard memories are of cruising along the beach with Carly Simon waling on the stereo.

Kite Boarders at the GutAlthough four-wheel driving is the quickest and most convenient way to set up for a day of fishing at one of Chappaquiddick’s world-class fishing spots, it is not the only way. For years, I have chosen to do it on two wheels, because bicycling is also a great way to explore Chappaquiddick. Since we generally stayed at a house out on Katama (Edgartown), this involved about a 7 mile drive, over a mile of which is on sand. Now this might not seem like a big deal, but throw two small boys on Toys R Us bikes into the equation and things get a bit more interesting. Since it is nice to have all your stuff at the beach—coolers, fishing rods, beach chairs, toys, etc.—Herb would drive there in the Suburban and the boys and I would meet him later.

Lolo and Andrew on the BeachWhen the boys were little, I always tried to encourage them to bicycle everywhere we could on the island. We even bought them little speedometers so they could keep track of how far they went. They would reset them at the beginning of the vacation so that they could see how far they had ridden. Near the end of one two-week trip, we found Andrew obsessively driving round and round the circle of the cul-de-sac where we were staying so that he could reach 100 miles—a pretty impressive accomplishment for an 8 year old.

I also never hesitated to stoop to bribery to get through what the boys began referring to as “Mommy boot camp.” “Only two more miles to Mrs. Miller’s muffins,” was a common technique. “Just a little more till the Quarterdeck where I will buy you a frappe.” It wasn’t pretty, but it worked. I would have to say that when we finally arrived and greeted Herb and his fellow fishermen on the beach, the boys strutted a bit more proudly for having gotten there on their own power.

The beaches of Chappy are managed by the Trustees of Reservations, a non-profit, land conservation and historic preservation organization in Massachusetts. The Cape Poge Wildlife Refuge, as it is called, extends seven miles from Wasque Point on the south, all the way past the Cape Poge Lighthouse to the Cape Poge Gut. While a four-wheel drive vehicle allows you to go all the way from Wasque to the Gut—which is a very bumpy, but scenic drive, which we have done several times in the past—bicyclists must choose either East Beach or Wasque, as these are the only places that roads will take you.

Herb Entertaining Tommy at East BeachThere is only one paved road on the island (Chappaquiddick Road), so when you get off the On Time Ferry there is not a whole lot of deciding where to go.

About 1.3 miles from the ferry, on the left, is North Neck Road, a dirt road leading 1.1 miles out to the trailhead for the North Neck Highlands Preserve, a property of the Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank. The trail leads to a tremendous view from the highlands out over Cape Poge Bay and “the Gut,” an area very popular for fishing, as well as windsurfing and kiteboarding. The only way back from this point, is to retrace your steps back to Chappaquiddick Road.

In 1999 (our last trip without RV), we rented a house with my brother’s family on these highlands overlooking Cape Poge Bay. It was a tremendous house with unparalleled views of “the Gut” and Edgartown in the distance. Each home on the bluff has a steep staircase leading down to a very narrow and somewhat rocky beach. We kept our kayaks on the beach and used them to make the short crossing over to the sandspit on the other side of “the Gut”. However, the winds were particularly strong, making what should have been a very easy paddle into something a bit more challenging.

Lolo of Wasque in RedMy brother Jim is an early riser, and each morning before the rest of us awoke, he would head down the staircase to the beach with his coffee and fishing rod. One morning he proudly returned telling us of the fish he had caught while we were all slumbering. I really loved the views from that house. We even spent the 4th of July that summer watching the fireworks over Edgartown Harbor from our deck. Rumor has it that Lady Gaga has bought a vacation home right near to this one.

We have returned to “the Gut” several times since that year, sometimes on our Grady White and once by kayak. In fact, Andrew caught his first striper from our Grady in the churned up waters at the entrance to the Bay. Herb was convinced it was just the current tugging at his line, until he hauled a nice size striper onto the boat.

2012 was the first year that Herb and I had our new kayaks on the island. We decided to paddle from State Beach in Edgartown across the Harbor and into “the Gut,” about a 5 mile paddle each way. I never understand how wind can always be against you, because that is exactly what happened that day, and it was a strong one. The trip there wasn’t as bad, probably because I wasn’t completely exhausted yet, but the entrance to “the Gut” was pretty scary. There were these standing waves that kept churning and churning in place, and it is easy to get caught up in them. I must say I had to use a very significant chunk of my allotted energy for the day to just get through them. However, the rewards afterwards were great as we pulled over to the beach (just across the way from our wonderful rental house of 1999) and lounged on the beach for a few hours.

007 Inflatable Amphibious Boat at the GutA very unusual thing happened when we were on the beach. An all black rigid-hulled inflatable boat with a single man on board entered the Bay. As he approached us, he lowered a wheel at the front of the boat and two in back and proceeded to drive up onto the beach. We had never seen anything like it. Next, he set up a kiteboard—also all black—and started skillfully whipping around the bay. I felt like we were watching a James Bond movie. Herb later spoke to him and learned a bit more about amphibious rigid-hulled boats, of which this was one. They can even be driven on the road, which this guy does to get it from the marina in Edgartown to his home. Very cool.

Lolo and Kayaks at the GutI was really hoping that the wind would die down a bit before we had to make the voyage back to State Beach, but it seemed to only be getting stronger. Although Herb tried to convince me to take the straight line—and thus the shortest distance—across the harbor to our destination, I was too scared to go back out in open water. I preferred to hug the shoreline, even if it meant going further. Also, I have noticed that when kayaking, the closer to shore you are, the faster it seems you are going, even if that isn’t true. You can kind of tick off distances—I just have to get to that dock, then just a little further to that boat, etc., etc. I remember almost crying at one point when my mini goal was to paddle from one dock to the next and I looked to my left only to find that dock wasn’t moving, or more correctly, I wasn’t moving in relation to it. I was just rowing in place, and if I stopped paddling for a minute, I would actually go backwards. The only way I could make progress was to paddle really, really hard—faster than the current and the winds against me. I admit to being a bit scared and a lot cranky. Herb was lucky he wasn’t to near me or he wouldn’t have like what I was calling him. Obviously, we did finally make it. I was never so happy to be at State Beach.

I got a bit off track, but I guess my point is no matter what means of transport, “the Gut” is definitely an interesting and worthwhile destination.

Lolo in Black Dress on Deck of "Gut House"Once back out on Chappaquiddick Road, another 0.3 miles (1.6 miles from the ferry) past North Neck Road brings you to the Brine’s Pond Preserve, a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank property, located on the right side of the road, just past the Chappaquiddick Community Center. It’s a pretty little spot, nice for a rest and a brief stroll along the trail around the pond. The most notable feature of the Preserve is an island of beetlebung (tupelo) trees in the center of the pond. Early settlers used the dense wood from these trees to make wooden mallets, called “beetles,” which drove the corks, called “bungs,” that plugged barrel holes.

Continuing along the paved Chappaquiddick Road, in 0.6 miles (2.2 miles from the ferry) is the Chappy General Store, the only store on the island. I am embarrassed to say that in over 30 years we have never stopped in this store so I have no idea what it is like.

In another .3 miles (2.5 from ferry), the road takes a sharp bend to the right. The unpaved Dike Road to East Beach goes straight, while the paved road continues on to Wasque. For now, let’s go straight on the dirt road.

About a half mile down the sandy Dike Road is Mytoi, a 14-acre secluded Japanese-style garden. It is a lovely stop and one that we have made every year to the island. We even had photos taken here on our wedding day on the arched wooden bridge over the pond. The preserve features both native and non-native flowers and plants, including Japanese maple trees, dwarf white pine, Japanese cedar, birch, and golden bamboo. Like the beaches of Chappy, this preserve is a property of The Trustees of Reservation. Entrance to the garden is free.

Mytoi Garden Arched Wooden BridgeIn addition to the garden paths, the ½-mile Salt Marsh trail, located across the street from the Mytoi parking lot, takes visitors through a pitch pine forest and along the salt marshes of Poucha Pond.

0.2 miles further down Dike Road is the infamous Dike Bridge, where in 1969 Teddy Kennedy lost all chances of becoming president when his car drove off the bridge, resulting in the death of Mary Jo Kopechne. For many years afterwards, the bridge was closed to all vehicles, but has long since reopened, allowing four-wheel drive vehicles to access the beach. This bridge was another stop on our wedding photo tour.

Poucha Pond lies to the right (south) of the bridge, and Cape Poge Bay to the north. It is a great spot for kayaking, and fortunately, we had brought t he boys’ kayaks and our canoe along this year. TheTTOR rents canoes and kayaks if you don’t have your own.

Andrew by Poucha PondCape Poge Bay is a bit larger (2.5 miles long) and more open, so we decided that the more sheltered Poucha Pond would be a better choice for novice paddlers such as ourselves. We had a lot of fun spending the afternoon exploring the pond and weaving in and out of the salt marsh. When we were finished, we had the boys haul their kayaks up onto the sand near the bridge. Andrew, however, left his a bit too much in the water and before we knew it, it had floated off the sand and out into Cape Poge Bay. Herb, who was putting the canoe on top of the Suburban at the time, feigned ignorance of what was going on, leaving it up to me to swim out after the loose kayak. I gave it back to Andrew who proceeded to repeat his half-ass job of kayak beach placement, forcing me to repeat my swim out into the Bay. Needless to say, I was aggravated with two out of the three Gaidus men. If Tommy didn’t stop laughing it would be three.

On the other side of the Dike Bridge is East Beach, a secluded barrier beach that is part of the Cape Poge Wildlife Refuge, managed by TTOR. At the time of this writing, admission for walkovers to the beach was $3 for adults and free for children under 15. We have come to this beach many, many times over the past three decades. The currents here are not as strong as those at Wasque Point, so it is a better place to swim.

Tommy by Poucha PondAlthough Wasque is generally considered to be the best fishing spot on Chappy, Herb and I had our most prolific fishing day ever on East Beach. Way back in 1984, before we were even married, Herb and I came to Martha’s Vineyard for Columbus Day Weekend. The main draw for Herb, I am sorry to say, was not the romance of a cozy Victorian inn, but rather the incredible fishing that occurs on this island during the fall months. In fact, the Martha’s Vineyard Striped Bass and Bluefish Derby is held each year from mid-September through mid-October, a time when grown men become obsessed with the act of catching the “Big One”.

Well anyway, on this one particular day, Herb and I had set up shop on East Beach. We generally do not fish with bait, so rather than casting out and waiting for something to bite, ours is a much more active process where we continuously cast out a lure and slowly reel it in trying to tempt a poor unsuspecting fish. This can get tiring and boring after awhile if nothing is happening, so often we get lazy and just wait and see if anyone else is catching anything. Well, on this particular day, we were the only ones fishing on East Beach, so we had no one to do the dirty work for us.

Herb Surf Fishing at Wasque - LEGAfter not too much wait, Herb pulled in the first blue—a nice, feisty 3 or 4 pounder. Blues put up a terrific fight and are really a lot of fun to catch. That got my attention, so I started casting too. Soon we were hauling them in one after the other. Before we knew it, we had over 50 bluefish lined up on the shore, more than half of which I would have to claim as mine. We were starting to attract quite a bit of attention from passersby.

I am not sure what possessed us to keep them all. My arms were already tired from hauling them in, and now we had to scale and fillet them. I was given the job of scaling as Herb usually assigns me the unskilled tasks. By the time I got to my 50th fish, my hands were bent like claws, set in place from holding the scaler too long. Now the question, which we should have asked ourselves hours ago, came to mind—What were we going to do with 50 fillets in our cozy little room at the Kelley House? And I don’t even like bluefish. Well, the answer was a large cooler and many, many trips to the ice machine. We managed to keep them cool and they traveled home with us on the Ferry. Herb’s rock climbing buddy Ed smoked them and they used them as snacks on their climbing trips—Yuck!!!

Tommy inside Bait BucketUsually, though when we want to fish, we head to Wasque Point, also part of the Cape Poge Wildlife Refuge and about a mile and a half south of East Beach. Wasque is so popular for fishing because of the Rip, a really strong current and undertow that is very dangerous for swimming, but very popular with stripers and blues. On any given day, but especially during the Derby, there are always dozens of four-wheel drives lined up along the water’s edge.

If you are fortunate enough to have a four-wheel drive vehicle and an annual pass, Wasque Point is a short, bumpy ride along the beach. However, those on two wheels must retrace their steps from East Beach back along the dirt Dike Road out to the paved Chappaquiddick Road. From there, make a left and follow Chappaquiddick Road for 0.8 miles to the junction with Wasque Road. Wasque Road is paved for about a half mile before turning into a stony, rutted sandy road. This sandy road goes on for about 1 mile before coming to the entrance to Wasque Reservation. I remember trying to peddle over this sandy road with a 2-year-old Tommy in a child seat on the back of my road bike. I didn’t even have a mountain bike at that time. I had to be nuts.

Right past the entrance there is a lovely trail to the left that leads through a pine forest and down to Pocha Pond. I have often left the beach when the fishing is slow to come here for a run.

Madison waving US Flag at ChappyThe sandy road continues a short distance further before ending in a parking lot. Right next to the outhouse is a rack to lock your bikes before heading down to the beach. A short distance from the bike rack is a bluff overlooking the beach where you get your first glimpse of four-wheel drives lined up ready to catch the big one. Until recently, there was also a lovely small pond situated between the bluff and the beach, appropriately named Swan Pond due to its resident Swan who was often found leisurely floating along its surface.

I have always found this spot peaceful and comforting, so much so, that when I was going through a particularly rough time I chose it as my “happy place.” About 20 years back when I was undergoing chemotherapy for breast cancer, I was encouraged to relax and visualize a place where I felt safe and happy. Although I have been to some pretty spectacular places, this tranquil pond surrounded by tall reeds swaying in the breeze is what kept popping into my mind—and it stayed there for years whenever I needed a comforting place to hide.

Herb playing catch on beachYou can imagine my reaction when we came here after Hurricane Irene struck in 2011 to find that the pond had been wiped out by the storm and completely filled in with sand. My sanctuary was now just part of the Wasque beach front. My first reaction was a rather self-centered one—“What does this mean for me? Is it some kind of ominous sign?” But then I realized that maybe I just didn’t need it anymore. Then I got sad for the swan.

The wooden staircase and the walkway to the beach had also taken a hit from the storm and was quite torn up. The beach looked entirely different, a reminder of the power of Mother Nature and its constant impact on this island. Just a few years back, in 2007, another storm breached the beach around the bend from Wasque, separating Chappy from the rest of Martha’s Vineyard once again. It was strange to think of how so many times over the past years we had driven our Suburban from South Beach in Edgartown to Wasque and how that was nowimpossible—at least until Mother Nature continued its work and filled the gap in with sand again.

I have so many fond memories of days spent at Wasque that I sure hope this place recovers from the devastation of the storm.

Boys Flexing on "Herb + Lolo" LogIronically, this fishing hot spot is also the site of one of Herb’s more romantic acts on the island. For many years a large log, which had been washed ashore, sat at the edge of where the dune grass meets the beach. When the kids were little, they used to climb up on its tall end and leap off into the sand. As years went by, more and more carvings appeared on the log as people continued to etch their initials into the wood. With a bit of pressure from myself and the kids, Herb sacrificed a few valuable fishing hours one afternoon, laboriously carving “Herb + Lolo” inside a heart with his Swiss Army knife. Years later, my brother was shamed into doing the same for him and his wife. He isn’t quite as handy with a knife, so his was a much greater and longer “labor” of love. It was nice to come here year after year and have that log looking over us.

However, a storm even earlier than Irene washed that log out to sea. Hmm…I wonder what that could possibly mean?

Description

Gut View from the Rental House on the BluffChappaquiddick is a small island (sometimes) a stone’s throw away from Edgartown. The reason I say sometimes is that for years a sand spit has connect South Beach in Katama to Chappaquiddick but severe storms in 2007 breached the thin, south-facing Norton Point making it an island once again. In fact, the name Chappaquiddick comes from an Indian word "cheppiaquidne" meaning "separated island." It is technically a part of Edgartown, but I felt that it was unique and distinct enough to be given a separate description.

The On Time Ferry runs every 5 minutes during the summer, bringing passengers back and forth between Edgartown and Chappy. For a schedule and fees, see: http://www.chappyferry.net/. There is a lovely, little beach located besides the ferry landing that offers a small sandy beach, calm waters, and great views of the Edgartown Lighthouse as well as the hustle and bustle of boats coming into and out of the harbor.

Once you get off the ferry, there is only one road to take, Chappaquiddick Road, and it also happens to be the only paved road on the island.

About 1.3 miles from the ferry, on the left, is North Neck Road, a dirt road leading 1.1 miles out to the trailhead for the North Neck Highlands Preserve, a property of the Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank. The trail leads to a tremendous view from the highlands out over Cape Poge Bay and “the Gut,” an area very popular for fishing, as well as windsurfing and kiteboarding. The only way back from this point, is to retrace your steps back to Chappaquiddick Road.

Lolo on Mytoi Garden BenchOnce back out on Chappaquiddick Road, another 0.3 miles (1.6 miles from the ferry) brings you to the Brine’s Pond Preserve, a Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank property, located on the right side of the road, just past the Chappaquiddick Community Center. During the 1700 and 1800s, this area was mostly grassland and used as pasture for sheep and cattle. When the livelihoods of the settlers shifted to whaling, the ungrazed land allowed for the growth of blueberry, bayberry and huckleberry bushes as well as red cedar trees and oaks. The most notable feature of the Preserve, however, is an island of beetlebung (tupelo) trees in the center of a small pond. A hiking trail encircles the pond. Early settlers used the dense wood from these trees to make wooden mallets, called “beetles,” which drove the corks, called “bungs,” that plugged barrel holes.

Continuing along the paved Chappaquiddick Road, in 0.6 miles (2.2 miles from the ferry) is the Chappy General Store, the only store on the island. In another .3 miles (2.5 from ferry), the road takes a sharp bend to the right. The unpaved Dike Road goes straight.

A half mile down the sandy Dike Road is Mytoi, a 14-acre secluded Japanese-style garden. Sheltered by a lovely pine grove, the preserve features both native and non-native flowers and plants, including Japanese maple trees, dwarf white pine, Japanese cedar, birch, and golden bamboo. Winding footpaths lead through the gardens to its focal point – an arched wooden bridge to a small island in a pond, where you are sure to spot turtles, goldfish, and frogs. A visit to Mytoi Gardens is a serene and contemplative respite from the hustle and bustle of summer activity on Martha’s Vineyard. Mytoi is a property of The Trustees of Reservations (TTOR), a non-profit, land conservation and historic preservation organization in Massachusetts. Entrance to the garden is free. In addition to the garden paths, the ½-mile Salt Marsh trail, located across the street from the Mytoi parking lot, takes visitors through a pitch pine forest and along the salt marshes of Poucha Pond.

Family on beach with Isuzu Trooper and Avon Redshank0.2 miles further down Dike Road is the infamous Dike Bridge, where in 1969 Mary Jo Kopechne died when Senator Teddy Kennedy’s car drove off the bridge.

Poucha Pond lies to the right (south) of the bridge, and Cape Poge Bay to the north – both of which are very popular with kayakers. The TTOR offers naturalist-led tours as well as canoe and kayak rentals. Poucha Pond is smaller, shallower, and more sheltered, and therefore better for less experienced paddlers. One can either paddle in the open pond or weave in and out of the salt marsh. Cape Poge Bay is a bit larger – 2.5 miles long and 1.2 miles wide – and more open, but well worth the extra effort to reach the Cape Poge Gut.

On the other side of the Dike Bridge is East Beach, a secluded barrier beach, managed by The Trustees of Reservations. East Beach is part of the Cape Poge Wildlife Refuge, which extends seven miles from Wasque Point on the south, past the Cape Poge Lighthouse, to Cape Poge Gut. This beach is very popular with swimmers and fishermen. At the time of this writing, admission for walkovers to the beach is $3 for adults and free for children under 15. Annual over-sand vehicle permits are $80 for TTOR members and $200 for non-member, non-island residents.

Approximately a mile and a half south of East Beach is Wasque Point, also managed by The Trustees of Reservations. If traveling by over-sand vehicle, it is a short, bumpy ride along the beach. However, bicyclists must retrace their steps back along the dirt Dike Road out to the paved Chappaquiddick Road. Make a left and follow Chappaquiddick Road for 0.8 miles to the junction with Wasque Road. Wasque Road is paved for about a half mile before turning into a stony, rutted sandy road. Continue on this sandy road for about 1 mile to the entrance to Wasque Reservation. Admission during the summer is the same as that for East Beach.

The actual point, known as the Rip because of its strong undertow, is very dangerous for swimmers, but a great place for fishermen in search of striped bass and bluefish. On almost any day, dozens of four-wheel drive vehicles line the water’s edge, especially during the annual Striped Bass and Bluefish Derby held each year for several weeks in September and October. Wasque is also a great spot for birdwatching. Sandpipers, seagulls, and ospreys hover over the beach, while great blue herons, egrets, and other migrating shorebirds frequent nearby Poucha Pond.

Wasque Point is the end of the road, or at least until Mother Nature decides it’s time to close the gap between here and Norton Point again. The only way back is to retrace one steps back to the Chappy Ferry.

There is one very long public beach on Chappaquiddick:

• East Beach - part of the Cape Poge Wildlife Refuge, which extends seven miles from Wasque Point on the south, past the Cape Poge Lighthouse, to Cape Poge Gut
• Lighthouse Beach – located near the Edgartown lighthouse on Edgartown Harbor

Kayaking opportunities:

• Poucha Pond
• Cape Poge Bay