Travelogue

The drive home from Quebec City took a little under 9 hours--something I would definitely keep in mind for the future. It's great to know that the feel of being in Europe is just a single day's drive away.

All in all, I would say the trip was a success and that I had shown the family that the Maritimes was not just a cold, damp, and buggy place (although sometimes it was). We didn't expect to find the dramatic beauty of the West or the warm beaches of the South, but we did--and all of it a lot closer to home.

Description

Our home in Upper Saddle River, a suburb of New York City.

Travelogue

The one thing that makes me feel a bit of a fraud in calling myself a seasoned traveler is the fact that I’ve never once stepped foot off the North American continent. Do I regret it? Sure I do, and someday (probably after the kids are gone) I’m going to make sure I see a lot more of the world, even though it means leaving our beloved Lazy Daze behind. In the meantime, Quebec City was the closest thing I was going to get to the spirit and feel of Old World charm.

Boy's on streets of Quebec CitySince visiting cities in a motorhome can often be quite stressful, I made sure ahead of time that we would be able to park the RV somewhere safely. In fact, my research actually began in Newfoundland when I overheard a Gros Morne park ranger say that she lived in Quebec City in the wintertime. She was quite helpful (as everyone in Newfoundland is) and drew me a detailed map of Lower Town, marking the large parking lot next to the Musee de la Civilisation on Dalhousie Street. It really does help to get local knowledge.

Despite my map and preparation, we managed to miss the turn into the parking lot and wound up on a narrow cobblestone side street where we almost became a permanent fixture. This made Herb a little cranky and brought back visions of the time I navigated him into the same situation in Salem, Massachusetts. For some reason I’m able to navigate us across an entire continent, but mess up on the details. Anyway, we did manage to get back to the parking lot without much further ado.

The first place we wanted to explore was Vieux Quebec, the walled portion of the city, which was sat atop the steep cliff rising from Lower Town. Having had so much success with talking to locals in Newfoundland, I decided to use the same approach here in finding the best way to get to Upper Town. Unfortunately, there was a bit of a language barrier—practically everyone spoke only French. I tried to get the boys to practice their French, but all I could get out of them was “No parle Francais.” Big help they were. After a few more unsuccessful attempts with passersby, we resorted to our map to find our own way.

Quebec City Faux BuildingsWe walked up a steep street that led us through a Gate and onto the Terrasse Dufferin, a pedestrian-only promenade along the cliff’s edge. From there we could look out over Lower Town, from which we had just come, and the St. Lawrence River. The boardwalk was full of activity—street performers playing music and vendors selling their wares from booths that ran the whole length of the boardwalk.

The kids and I became quite pouty when we saw happy tourists emerging onto the promenade from the funicular terminal. What the heck was a funicular and why weren’t we one of the happy tourists getting off of it? Perhaps if the boys had spoken French in Lower Town, we would have known about this. Anyway, for whatever reason, we missed out on entering Upper Town via a glass-enclosed gondola-like car along a very steep railway track. I just hate when this happens.

Since we had no particular agenda, we spent the afternoon wandering around the narrow cobblestone streets, taking in the various sights along the way. Right behind the Terrasse Dufferin was my personal favorite—the Chateau Frontenac, a majestic castle that serves as the symbol of Quebec City. It’s actually a hotel and has hosted such dignitaries as Queen Elizabeth, Winston Churchill, and Franklin Delanor Roosevelt. I wish it could have hosted me.

A refreshing break at La Lapin Saute CafeAfter seeing the main highlights, like La Citadelle and La Basilica de Notre-Dame, we wandered off the main drag into the residential section of the town. This is what I really enjoy—seeing the real city, not just the part marketed to tourists. We eventually wound up along des Ramparts, where cannons lined the fortified walls above Lower Town.

We followed the cannons back around to a park near the gate where we first entered the walled city. From there we could look down into the Lower Town and onto one of my favorite sights—a 900 square foot mural depicting the history of Old Quebec, painted on the wall of a building on the rue du Petit-Champlain.

From there we headed down the aptly named “Breakneck Stairs” into the Quartier Petit Champlain, one of the oldest and narrowest streets in North America. It was extremely hot out and we were getting a bit cranky, so we stopped at an outdoor cafe, named La Lapin Saute, for some iced coffee and desserts. It was the perfect thing to cheer us up. Having difficulty deciding which of the delicious desserts to order, we decided to each order something different and then share it. Herb ordered the cheese cake, I ordered the chocolate mousse, Andrew went for the apple pie, and Tommy bravely ordered the creme brulee. Of course, when the desserts arrived and were tasted, all previously established rules went out the window and those that received a dessert they truly enjoyed refused to share it. We were obviously nearing the end of a very long vacation together.

It was getting late in the afternoon and time for us to find a place to spend the night. We had all truly enjoyed our visit to Vieux Quebec, probably even more than we had anticipated. Although not a replacement for visiting Europe, it was the next best thing this side of the Atlantic.

Description

Quebec City, located along the St. Lawrence River about three hours east of Montreal, provides Old World charm without every having to leave the continent. The city is almost entirely French in spirit and language, although you will find a few people, especially those in the tourist trade, that do speak a bit of English.

Approach to Quebec CityThe city became the birthplace of French civilization in North America when Samuel de Champlain built the first permanent French settlement here in 1608. Because of the importance of its history, its unique beauty, and the fact that it is the only walled city north of Mexico, the historic section of the city was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985.

The city is divided by steep cliffs into an Upper Town (Haute Ville), which is perched on top of Cape Diamond, and a Lower Town (Basse Ville) at the base of the cliffs. Both areas have old and new sections. The two towns are connected by steep ramp-like streets, steep staircases with names such as "breakneck stairs", and a cliff-side elevator called a funicular.

Some logistics before visiting the city:

• Stop at the large Visitor Center located right off Route 73 to obtain maps and information
• When visiting the city, park at the large lot next to the Musee de la Civilisation on Dalhousie street in Lower Town. The lot can accommodate RVs.

Visiting Upper Town (Haute Ville)

Upper Town, which sits atop Cape Diamond, is home to the most visited part of Quebec City, the charming, walled Old Town of Vieux Quebec. Although very hilly, Vieux Quebec is quite compact and best explored by wandering on foot along its cobblestone streets. Wandering through the old town is like wandering through an old European city. Maps of the old city and recommended walking tours can be obtained at one of the visitor centers or gifts shops in the area.

A good place to start your walk is at the Terrasse Dufferin, a pedestrian-only promenade along the cliff's edge overlooking the river, filled with street vendors and performers. From there, it is a short stroll to many interesting sights, such as:

• Chateau Frontenac - majestic castle atop Cape Diamond, which serves as the symbol of Quebec City. Built in 1893, this restored hotel has hosted such guests as Queen Elizabeth, Winston Churchill, and Franklin Delanor Roosevelt.
• Les Glissades de la Terrasse - a 270 feet high and 630 feet long slide on which you can ride a specially built toboggan, which reaches speeds of up to 60 mph.
• Basilica of Notre-Dame - the oldest Christian parish north of Mexico. Originally built in 1647, it was destroyed twice by fire and rebuilt. The Cathedral contains many impressive works of art.
• La Citadelle - star-shaped fort, which is now home to a military museum and the Royal 22e regiment. There are tours of the grounds and buildings as well as a changing of the guard ceremony.
• Parc des Champs-de-Bataille (Battlefields Park) - 270 acres of gardens, fountains, monuments, and trees where Quebecois come to relax and enjoy the outdoors. The park stretches over the Plains of Abraham, the site of a 1759 British victory over the French.
• Musee de Quebec - art museum that now occupies two buildings, one a former prison, linked together by a soaring glass-roofed "Grand Hall" housing a cafe and gift shop

Visiting Lower Town (Basse Ville)

The Lower Town is located at the base of Cape Diamond. It was here that the first French settlers lived before moving to safer houses atop the steep cliffs in order to avoid British gunfire.

"Breakneck stairs" leads down from Terrasse Dufferin in Upper Town to the restored Quartier du Petit-Champlain in Lower Town. The cobblestone Rue du Petit Champlain that runs through the Quartier is one of the oldest and narrowest streets in North America. It is lined with unique stone houses, churches, lovely squares, and numerous boutiques and outdoor cafes. One of the more interesting sights in the Quartier is a 900 square foot mural depicting the history of the area. It is painted on the side of a building at 102 rue du Petit-Champlain. There is an excellent view of the mural from the cannons in the park in Upper Town.

East of the Quartier du Petit-Champlain is Place Royale, a picturesque plaza that is the spiritual heart of Lower Town. During the 1600s, this plaza served as the town marketplace for the first permanent settlement in New France. After 1860, the use of the square declined and it became a run-down part of town. Today it has been restored to recapture its 400 years of history. Surrounding the square are 17th century houses that once belonged to wealthy merchants. Dominating the square is the Eglise Notre-Dame-des-Vicoites, the oldest stone church in Quebec. Suspended from the ceiling of this church is a large model boat, which served as an offering to ensure safe sea voyages. The church is open to visitors. The Interpretive Center at the northeast corner of the square conducts free guided tours of the plaza.

Another "must see" in Lower Town is the Musee de la Civilisation, one of Canada's most innovative museums. The dramatic atrium-lobby contains a massive sculpture of icebergs rising out of the floor. In the galleries above are five permanent exhibits and six temporary ones. If you only have time for one exhibit, make it "Memoires," which chronicles the history of Quebec, from its roots as a fur-trading colony to the present.

Travelogue

After Kouchibouguac, we had a decision to make—back home through New Brunswick or north to Quebec. The decision was unanimous—on to Quebec! So we headed north on Route 11 and crossed into the province of Quebec at the town of Metapedia, at the base of the Gaspe Peninsula. I don’t think that this is the route that most people take to Quebec. The road (Route 132) was horribly bumpy and there was practically no one else on it. To its credit, however, it did run along the very pretty Metapedia River, which is known for its great trout and salmon fishing. From Metapedia, it was about a 90 mile drive across the Gaspe Peninsula to get to the St. Lawrence River. Fortunately, the road improved considerably after about 20 miles.

Sunset over the St. LawrenceThe drive was actually quite scenic, passing through rolling farmlands and quaint villages. One of the most interesting things we noticed was that no matter how poor a village looked, it always had an ornate Catholic church with tall pewter spires rising to the heavens. Religion was obviously a top priority with these people.

When we got to the St. Lawrence River, the area seemed a lot more touristy, so we stopped at a Visitor Center for information. I couldn’t believe it—absolutely no one in there spoke a word of English—and this was a Visitor Center! I can’t understand why the rest of Canada has to bend over backwards to put everything in both English and French (even where there isn’t a need to), while Quebec makes absolutely no effort at all to accommodate those that speak only English. Seems like a bit of a double standard to me.

Herb on salmonless riverWe left the Visitor Center, armed with French brochures for Tommy to use as extra credit in his French class, and continued our drive southwest along Route 132. The drive was great. The road ran right alongside the river and the late-day lighting was perfect.

After about 50 miles, we stopped at a campground in the village of Trois-Pistoles, about 150 miles north of Quebec City. After stumbling around with the language barrier for awhile, we were given one of the last available campsites. I couldn’t figure out why this place was so crowded. The aesthetics were pretty awful, with run down facilities and trailers packed in like sardines—but then we discovered the attraction! Just by luck, we went for a walk to stretch our legs and came upon a beautiful beach on the St. Lawrence River. The tide was going out, exposing the rocks and tidal pools, and the sun was starting to set directly over the river. Crowds of people with coolers were heading down to the beach. We might not be able to communicate with them, but we could understand the universal language—sunset and cocktails. We ran back to the motorhome to get camera equipment, a tripod, and a cooler of our own. Nice aesthetics!

Description

Trois Pistoles is located along the St. Lawrence River about 150 miles north of Quebec City. Like most of Quebec (outside the major cities), the only language spoken is French, and it is quite difficult to find someone to communicate even slightly in English.

Pre-Sunset over the St. LawrenceThe drive to Trois Pistoles along Route 132 from the Gaspe Peninsula is very scenic, running parallel to the St. Lawrence River most of the way. The Camping Plage Trois-Pistoles Campground is located right off Route 132. Although the sites are extremely small and you are packed in like sardines, the campground beach right on the River compensates for the otherwise unaesthetic environment. The sunsets over the river are unbelievable.

Travelogue

After leaving Prince Edward Island, we headed north along the Acadian Coastal Drive, which traces the western shore of the Northumberland Strait. This was the French speaking portion of New Brunswick, and the names of the towns, like Bouctouche and Richibucto, reflected that. New Brunswick is really a microcosm of Canada in that its population is split between British and Acadian ancestry. I was surprised to learn though that the New Brunswick French do not share many cultural roots with the Quebecois French and that they actually have very little to do with each other.

Herb with Lazy DazeWe stopped to food shop in the Acadian village of Bouctouche and quickly discovered that we were the only ones in the store speaking English. The kids became quite entertained with trying to make me say stupid things in French. Eventually, we arrived at Kouchibouguac National Park, which the boys tried to convince me was pronounced Koo-chi-butt-crack. I highly doubted it.

Although the drive from PEI had taken us about 3 ½ hours, we could practically look across the Northumberland Strait and see where we had started from that morning. Kouchibouguac is only about 25 miles away from western PEI as the crow flies, but over 170 miles by road.

We stopped at the Visitor Center, as we always do, to purchase hat pins and gather information about the park. We also stayed to watch the award-winning audio-visual presentation portraying the beauties of the park in all four seasons. I’m glad we did; the photography and music were spectacular.

It was early in the day, so we had no trouble getting a campsite at the park’s main campground—South Kouchibouguac. Half of the 311 sites are kept for campers without reservations, so if you get there early enough in the day, it’s not a problem getting a site. Rather than a site in the woods, we chose one of the electric sites in an open field near the Kouchibouguac River. The view of the river and the boats in the marina across the way was lovely.

Herb and boys on Kelley's BeachAnother nice feature of the campground was that the bike path went right by the campground, and bike riding was actually what brought us to Kouchibouguac in the first place. Since, mountain biking is probably are #1 favorite family activity, I often base our itineraries around great places to bike. I found out about Kouchibouguac in a book entitled Mountain Bike! Atlantic Canada. I feel that if you get one good ride out of a book, it was worth the price. This book gave me two—the Homestead Trail in PEI and the 17-mile loop trail through Kouchibouguac.

Having decided to save the long bike ride for the morning, we hopped on our bikes and headed over to Kelly's Beach, the most popular beach in the park. The ride was an easy 2 or 3 miles over a well-groomed, crushed cinder trail. Since the Beach is actually on a barrier island, we had to leave our bikes in a bike rack, and walk along a 600-foot boardwalk over salt marshes to get to the beach. You can either swim in the lifeguard-protected waters of the Northumberland Strait or the very warm (80+ degrees), shallow waters of the lagoon. We chose to swim in the lagoon. Afterwards, we explored a little further by bike and then headed back to the campground.

We still had some time before dinner, so the boys and I decided to go for a 5-mile run on the bike path in the opposite direction from the beach, along the banks of the Kouchibouguac River. The scenery along the river was lovely. We didn’t stay together too long—I’m afraid that the days where I had to slow down for the boys to keep up with me are long gone. I’m a pretty good runner, but nothing compared to teenagers that run track. By the time I got back to the campground, they had already showered. I must be getting old.

The next morning we set out early to bike the 17-mile loop described in the mountain biking book. However, since we were starting from the campground rather than the visitor center, we were cutting about 4 miles off the loop.

Lolo and boys on bike trailWe left the campground and headed southwest along the Kouchibouguac River where we had run the previous evening. This was easy, flat riding along a gravel trail. After about 2 miles, we came to a picnic area named La Source, and turned inland following the trail for about 2 ½ miles through a forest to the Petit-Large campground. At Petit-Large, there were several choices of trails to take. We wanted to ride the 6-mile single-track section, which is a lot more challenging and technical than the gravel trails. According to the book, we were supposed to look for a sign for the Major Kollock Trail, but we had a bit of trouble finding it. Eventually, we managed to get on the single-track trail, but I don’t remember ever seeing the sign for it.

Now the trail got interesting. It started out through an area of ferns and low-lying vegetation that looked like the bottom of the sea. Over the more boggy sections there were boardwalks that were wide enough to ride on without even me getting too nervous. Of course, the boys, in their constant quest to make things more extreme, spent a lot of time lying in the ferns alongside the boardwalk. In fact, Andrew rode most of the trail with ferns sticking out of his helmet. As we got further into the woods, there were a few more interesting twists and turns in the trail that tested our bike-handling skills. However, we did okay though and before we knew it we were back out on the gravel trail near the Salt Marsh. From there, we turned left and rode along the Northumberland Strait for about 3 miles or so back to the campground.

It was a great ride and we got back just in time to check out and continue on our journey.

Description

Kouchibouguac (pronounced "Koosh-uh-boog-oo-whack") National Park is located along the Acadian Coast of New Brunswick, along the warm waters of the Northumberland Strait. Its acres of salt marshes, lagoons, bogs, rivers, warm-water beaches, and extensive network of bicycle trails make it a popular destination for families.

The park has more than 9 miles of sandy beaches protected by sandy barrier islands. The most popular beach is Kelly's Beach with its warm waters and gentle waves. Access to this beach is over a 600-yard boardwalk that crosses salt marshes and lagoons. You can swim in the lifeguard-protected waters of the Strait or in the shallow, very warm waters of the lagoon. The temperature of the water in the lagoon is well into the 80s, making it some of the warmest water north of the Carolinas.

The park has more than 30 miles of bike trails that traverse forests and bogs and meander along rivers and lagoons. Most of those miles are along well-groomed, crushed cinder trails that are easy for all levels of cyclists. However, there are also about 6 miles of single-track trails, which are a bit rougher and more technical to handle.

The park contains over 20 miles of hiking trails through a variety of ecosystems: salt marshes, bogs, river banks, lagoons, beaches, tidal pools, and barrier islands. Most of the hikes are fairly short and easy, ranging from a quarter of a mile to more than 8 miles. One popular hike is the 1.2-mile Bog Trail, which leads across a 4,500-year-old bog on a boardwalk to a wooden observation tower with panoramic views of the area. The longest trail in the park is the 8-mile Kouchibouguac River Trail, which traces the south bank of the river.

Other popular activities in the park include sea kayaking or canoeing along the lagoon, marshes, and rivers. Rentals are available near the South Kouchibouguac Campground.

The main campground in the park is the beautifully maintained, 311-site South Kouchibouguac Campground on the Kouchibouguac River. Conveniently, the bike path starts right from the campground, allowing you to get everywhere you need to by bike. This campground is quite popular and fills up early. Although reservations can be made, half of the sites are held for campers without reservations. There are only 46 sites with electricity. These sites are located out in the open near the river.

Travelogue

After leaving Robinson’s Island, we decided to head towards the Cedar Dunes Provincial Park on the very southwestern tip of the island, which the Frommer’s Guide had described as one of the nicest provincial parks on PEI.

Lolo and boys in Bumper BoatsOur drive west along Route 2 took us through miles and miles of rolling farm country, not as striking as the scenery on Cape Breton and Newfoundland, but beautiful in its own way—very peaceful and restful. This end of the island had a much different feel to it than the central part—much more remote and pristine.

Despite the lack of development on this end of the island, I did manage to find the Mill River Fun Park, right on Route 2 West near Mill River Provincial Park. I think I was still trying to make up to Tommy for not finding an amusement park on Newfoundland for his birthday. Although it didn’t quite compare to the water parks we had been to in the states, it was okay and quite reasonably priced. With the coupons I found in the Free PEI Visitor Handbook, it only cost the four of us only $14 Canadian.

Herb and Lolo at West Point LighthouseWe started off with a little competitive family mini golf and then worked our way over to the giant Twister water slide. There was no line—something we don’t find in those fancy water parks in the states. The kids convinced Herb and me to do it too, and I’m glad because it actually was quite fun. We finished up our time in the Fun Park with the bumper boats. Once again, there was no line, so we could stay on as long as we liked. The park might not have been fancy, but there’s definitely something to be said for the lack of crowds.

On the drive to Cedar Dunes, we passed the PEI Potato Museum in the town of O’Leary. As the day was getting late, we managed to resist the lure of the14-foot-high sculptured potato in front of the museum and continued on to Cedar Dunes.

Frommer’s was right—Cedar Dunes was lovely. We got one of the 42 sites out in the open grassy area, just over the dunes from a beautiful red sand beach and a short walk away from the picturesque West Point Lighthouse. Very nice aesthetics! Just when I thought things couldn’t get any better, I found out that the lighthouse served dinner. This was going to be good.

Lolo and Boys at top of lighthouseWe spent some time down at the beach where the sand was redder than any I have ever seen. The water was nice and warm, but the memory of all the jellyfish we had seen at our last PEI beach kept the boys on dry land playing Frisbee.

That evening we strolled over to the lighthouse and had a very enjoyable dinner (I usually find any dinner that I don’t have to cook in the RV enjoyable). After dinner, we explored the small museum at the base of the lighthouse and then climbed the spiral stairs to the top. The views of the beach and the Northumberland Strait were marvelous.

It had been a very nice day and a good way to end our visit to beautiful Prince Edward Island.

Description

Cedar Dunes Provincial Park is located in the southwestern corner of Prince Edward Island. This part of the island is the most remote and undeveloped--much less crowded than the central part of the island.

Camping in Cedar DunesThe park has a 42-site, open area campground next to a beautiful red sand beach. The warm waters of the Northumberland Strait make swimming here quite pleasant.

Adjacent to the park is the picturesque, black-and-white-striped West Point Lighthouse. Besides being a functioning lighthouse, it is also an inn and restaurant, the first of its kind in Canada. The inn has nine guest rooms and its restaurant serves dinner both in its dining room and on a patio overlooking the beach. A small museum in the tower has photographs and artifacts documenting its history. You can also climb up to the lantern deck at the top.

Travelogue

Cavendish was lots of fun, but we were ready for something a little quieter and more remote. That’s what’s nice about PEI National Park—there’s something for everyone. If you want lots of action and man-made entertainment, then Cavendish, along the western part of the park, is the place to be. However, if you want the more natural beauty of a secluded beach, then the Robinsons Island section of the park is the right choice. We tend to find that it’s good to mix things up—a little time in Cavendish to satisfy the kids’ need for amusement and then on to Robinsons Island to enjoy a beautiful beach to ourselves. It’s the contrast that makes things interesting.

Herb with filmless cameraAlthough we had been unable to get a campsite at the Cavendish National Park Campground, we had no trouble getting one at Robinsons Island, and the reason for that was—no hookups. We find that it’s pretty easy to go a few days without a hookup, and the willingness to do so has given us the opportunity to stay in some very scenic and uncrowded campgrounds. Robinsons Island was definitely one of them. Although most of the sites are wooded, we chose to stay in one of the open grassy sites right on Rustico Bay. I’m not sure why anyone wouldn’t—the view from the motorhome was spectacular. Perched in beach chairs at the edge of a small bluff, we could sit back and watch herons feeding in the bay.

After lunch, we hopped on our bikes and rode a short distance down a dirt road to a deserted red sand beach at the mouth of Rustico Bay. The beach was quite lovely and the water was warm. Unfortunately, the numerous jellyfish carcass that lined the shore—and the ones that we could see in the water—made the thought of swimming less than inviting. As an alternative to swimming, we decided to have a photography contest. This is something that we started since Tommy got his digital camera, and we find that besides being entertaining, it’s a great way for the kids, and us, to really see things in a different way. Also, we’ve taken some great photographs in the process. What we do is assign a theme or topic, such as texture, wildlife, reflections, etc., and then we each take a picture to fit that theme. Then comes the judging, which surprisingly doesn’t get too ugly. Amazingly enough, we all seem to agree on the winning shot.

Boy's on Rustico Bay BeachThat night before dinner, Andrew and I decided to go on a run—separately, of course, as he is much faster and finds it embarrassing to run with his mother. I’m not sure where he went, but I ran back down the dirt road to the beach and along the water for awhile. The sun was getting low and the lighting was perfect. As I ran out on a spit of sand that jutted out into Rustico Bay, I just couldn’t resist any longer. I took off my sneakers and jumped in, taking my chances with the jellyfish. It was wonderful—except for having to put my sneakers back on my now wet and sandy feet.

Back at the campsite, we barbecued and watched the sun set over the bay--very lovely and another great photographic opportunity. Unfortunately, the bugs soon came out in droves, making it impossible for us to remain outside any longer. It’s too bad. This place would have been perfect if it weren’t for the jellyfish and the bugs. That’s what prompted our decision to not stay a second night, but to move on and explore another section of PEI.

Description

Prince Edward Island National Park encompasses a 24-mile stretch of red sand beaches along the island’s north central coast. Park activities include hiking on its numerous trails, swimming in the warm waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, digging for clams, kayaking in the protected bays and rivers, cycling on its roads and trails, and bird watching.

Rustico Bay BeachThe park is separated into sections by various bays and inlets. West of Rustico Bay is the very popular and often crowded Cavendish section. Here you’ll find the park’s largest campground (260 sites), a supervised beach, and the spectacular hiking/biking Homestead Trail. Reservations are not accepted in the campground, so plan to arrive early in the day.

East of Rustico Bay is the much more remote Robinsons Island Campground (148 sites – none of which have hookups), which has wooded sites as well as open area sites right on Rustico Bay. From the campground, it’s just a short walk down a dirt road to the secluded, unsupervised sandy beach at the mouth of Rustico Bay.

2 ½ miles east of the Robinsons Island Campground is the very popular Brackley Beach, where there are lifeguards and changing facilities. Another 5 miles east is the Stanhope Campground, which is located just across the park road from another supervised beach.

Travelogue

Although the boys do enjoy natural beauty and outdoor activities, they do have the occasional need for a commercial fix, and Cavendish, PEI was just the ticket. While most of PEI is rolling farmland and quiet red sand beaches, Route 6 in Cavendish is lined with t-shirt shops, mini golf, a wax museum, a Ripley’s Believe it or Not!, and even two amusement parks. Thank goodness. We had been promising Tommy that we would take him to an amusement park for his birthday (which was now 2 days ago), but there was absolutely nothing of the sort to be found in Newfoundland—which is perhaps what Herb and I liked so much about the island.

Herb and Lolo on Homestead TrailThe reason that Cavendish is so built up and developed seemed kind of strange to me. It became the tourist center of the island because it is the home of the fictional character Anne of Anne of Green Gable, who is so popular that thousands of tourists come here each year to see the places written about in the book and to walk where Anne walked—fictionally at least. There is an Anne of Green Gables Museum, a playhouse performing the Anne of Green Gables musical, the National Park run Green Gables House, and so on and so on. That might have been the basis for Cavendish’s popularity, but gradually more and more non-Anne related attractions kept getting added to the area to satisfy the entertainment needs of the Anne fans. Now even non-Anne fans, such as us, could enjoy the many non-natural wonders of Cavendish.

The boys were ready. However, the first order of business was finding a place to stay for the night. We were a little concerned when we found out that the National Park Campground was full, but we were able to get a site at Sunset Campground, a very large commercial campground right on Route 6 in the heart of the action. The campground was quite nice and had lots of recreational facilities. After some mini golf and ping pong, we hopped on our bikes and headed out to Route 6 to see the sights.

Lolo and Boys on Homestead TrailOur first stop was the Ripley's Believe it or Not! Museum where we saw some very unusual and downright strange exhibits—some of them quite amazing and definitely hard to believe. Our personal favorite was the mirror that you looked into to see if you could curl your tongue. That was nothing. The real exhibit was around the corner where you got to watch the fools that came along after you, contorting their faces into what was actually a 2-way mirror. It was quite entertaining.

After the museum, we stopped at the Sandpit, a small amusement park where the kids’ highlight was definitely the “Indy” go cart racing. Then back near the campground, we had pizza and ice cream and did some browsing in the shops along the Sunset Boardwalk.

The next morning, before leaving Cavendish, we drove into the National Park which was right across Route 6 from our campground. Actually, the whole shoreline of Cavendish is part of Prince Edward Island National Park, which has a large 300-site campground as well as a very popular supervised swimming beach. The reason we were in the park, however, was to mountain bike the Homestead Trail, which I had read about in my Mountain Biking Atlantic Canada book. It was as good, if not better, than described. The 6 ½ mile trail had a little bit of everything—sweeping views of sand dunes and red stone cliffs along New London Bay, salt marshes, woods, and farmland. There was amazing variety for such a short distance. We stopped to take some interesting photos of the rolls of hay in a farmer’s field. Except for the bugs, of which there was many, it was a near perfect ride.

Description

Cavendish is located along Route 6 on the northern coast of central PEI. It is best known as the home of the fictional character Anne of Anne of Green Gable, whose enduring popularity has attracted thousands of tourists to the area to tread the grounds that Anne walked. As a result, Cavendish is the most tourist-oriented part of the entire island and this once bucolic area is now full of motels, numerous commercial campgrounds, a wax museum, a Ripley’s Believe it or Not! Museum, amusement parks, mini golf, etc. Fortunately, most of the tourist attractions are confined to a small stretch of Route 6, and you only have to travel a few miles in either direction to get back to rolling farmland and quiet beaches.

Lolo and Boys on Homestead TrailThe shoreline of Cavendish, on the northern side of Route 6, is actually part of PEI National Park. Here there is a large and very popular, supervised beach, a large National Park campground with over 300 sites, and numerous hiking trails. There is also a great family bike ride—the Homestead Trail. This 6 ½ mile, well maintained trail meanders past red stone cliffs and sand dunes along the shore of New London Bay, and then inland through salt marshes, woods, and farmlands.

The National Park also has a small section on the southern side of Route 6 that includes the Green Gables House, interpretive exhibits related to the book, hiking trails, and an award-winning video presentation on the life of L.M. Montgomery, the author of Anne of Green Gables.

The north shore of PEI is also home to the famous lobster suppers, which originated many years ago as potluck suppers in church basements. Today, these suppers are big business. The Fisherman’s Wharf Lobster Suppers in north Rustico can accommodate 500 diners at a time and has a 60-foot salad bar to complement its lobster.

Travelogue

We left Route 430 in the town of Wiltondale and headed west on Route 431 to explore the southern section of Gros Morne National Park. Since the northern and southern sections of the park are separated by Bonne Bay, visiting the southern section meant driving out and back about 30 miles each way. From what we had read in the guide books though, it sounded like Trout River Pond was worth it. Also, the campground at the end of the 30 miles was supposed to have great views of the pond, which actually wasn’t a pond at all, but rather a 9-mile long landlocked fjord.

Trout River PondI was starting to get a little concerned about the weather. Yesterday on the ferry it had been so sunny and promising, but now a thick fog had moved in, and it looked like it was here to stay. There were two things we had feared about a trip to Newfoundland—the weather and the bugs. We hadn’t had any problems with bugs yet (that would come later), but the weather certainly looked like it was going to be a challenge. In fact the name “gros morne” actually means “big gloomy” because of the fog and clouds that often just hover in the valleys.

Our first stop was at the Tablelands Overlook to see the area that had made this part of the park a World Heritage Site. What looked to me like any old rocky plateau of rust-colored rocks was actually a geologist’s paradise—a section of the earth’s mantle brought to the surface by Continental Drift. Geologists come here from all around the world to experience this unique opportunity to study the earth’s inner core close up.

Herb and Boys on Tablelands hikeWhile gazing out at the Tablelands and trying very hard to be appropriately geologically moved, we happened to notice a video camera on a tripod in the corner of the otherwise deserted parking lot. Closer inspection of the equipment revealed that the camera was actually still filming. How strange and creepy! Where was the owner? What could possibly make someone, voluntarily at least, leave behind thousands of dollars worth of state-of-the-art equipment? We weren’t quite sure just what we should do. The imminent threat of rain and the belief that the next person that came along would most likely keep the equipment, convinced us to take it and turn it over to the Park Rangers at the Trout River Campground. I think they were quite surprised when we did. They radioed our find to the various ranger stations in the park and had us fill out some forms. They informed us that if no one claimed it in 6 months it would be ours. I wasn’t sure what to root for. This was the video camera that Herb has been lusting for.

We got a campsite for the night, but I was quite disappointed to find that the views of Trout River Pond that the guide book raved about were only possible from 2 of the campsites, both of which, of course, were taken. The rest of us got to look at a bunch of bushes. Since there was nothing to do at the campground, Herb went for a run while the boys and I biked down the dirt road to the Day Use Area to see what kind of fun we could stir up. The boys are usually pretty good at this and can make even the most mundane activities seem quite exciting.

Trout River PondWe decided to try to bike the hiking trail along the shore of the pond, which I had read about in the guide book. The trail traces the shore of the pond for 4 ¼ miles to a point called the Narrows, where the cliffs almost pinch the pond in two. It’s supposed to be quite impressive. Should be a piece of cake by bike—or so we thought. The trail started off along a narrow boardwalk, raised about 2 feet above the ground, which totally freaked me out for some reason. My bike, which I normally ride quite proficiently, was wobbling madly back and forth, precariously close to the edges of the boardwalk, quite to the boys’ amusement. From there the trail proceeded up and down a steep, root-strewn path that obviously was not meant for biking. Needless to say, the kids thought it was great. I admire their spirit! I, however, had already dismounted my bike and was lugging it over roots and up hills so steep that the bike almost fell back down on me. Finally, I convinced the boys to turn back, although I did regret not getting to see the Narrows.

That evening the kids played Frisbee and Herb and I had a glass of wine in the campground picnic area, which actually did have a nice view of the Trout River Pond. However, soon as dusk began to fall, we were greeted with Newfoundland’s second challenge—bugs, and lots of them. We quickly retired to the safety and comfort of our motor home.

The next morning we arose to the sound of a steady rain hitting the roof of the RV, so we decided to sleep in. A short time later, we were awakened by a knock on our RV door, a sound which always fills me with apprehension. Standing out in the rain was a woman, who identified herself as the owner of the camera equipment we had turned in the day before. She thanked us profusely and explained that she was the Artist in Residence at Gros Morne this month and that some of her work was on display at the Discovery Center. We were glad that we had been able to help her, but I must admit that getting that camera in 6 months sure would have been nice.

Despite the rain, we stopped at the Tablelands on the drive out to hike the 2 ½ mile trail through sections of the earth’s mantle. It just had to be done, rain or shine. We caught up with a ranger-led walk and got to learn a bit more about the geological significance of the area. After the hike, we stopped at the brand new Discovery Center where we saw a wonderful film of what Gros Morne would look like, if we could ever see it through the fog.

Description

Gros Morne National Park is located on the western coast of Newfoundland, at the southern end of the Great Northern Peninsula. It was named "gros morne," which means "big gloomy" in French, because of the fog and clouds that often hover in its glacial valleys. However, despite its often imperfect weather, the beauty of its snow-capped mountains, land-locked fjords, and sandy beaches make it truly one of Canada's gems. In addition to its beauty, its Tablelands area, which is actually an exposed portion of the earth's mantle, is so important geologically that in1987 the park was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The park is divided into a north and south section, separated by Bonne Bay, which makes it a bit of a challenge to travel through. There is no loop drive through the park, but rather one must drive out and back to visit each section. However, the drive is well worth it. This stop describes Trout River and the Tablelands, in the southern portion of the park.

To explore the southern section, exit Route 430 (the Viking Trail) in the town of Wiltondale and follow Route 431. The road ends at Trout River in about 30 miles. Along the way is the brand new Discovery Center in Woody Point, where there are hands-on activities, interactive exhibits, and films explaining the beauties and wonders of this park.

Right past the Discovery Center is the area called the Tablelands. A 2.5-mile out and back hike leads through this fascinating, rust-colored plateau which, as mentioned above, is actually the earth's mantle pushed to the surface. You can do this hike on your own or join one of the informative ranger-led walks.

Continuing on Route 431, the road dead-ends at the Trout River Pond, a beautiful 9-mile-long landlocked fjord. There are two ways to explore this magnificent fjord. One is an 8.5-mile out and back hike along the north shore of the pond. The hike can be made shorter, but not if you want to view the Narrows, where the pond is practically pinched in two by tall cliffs. The more relaxing way to see the fjord is to take the 2 ½ hour Tableland Boat Tour, which departs from the Trout River Pond day-use area 3 times a day in season (10:00 am, 1 pm, and 4 pm).

There are two drive-in campgrounds in the southern section of the park. The Trout River Pond Campground is located on a plateau overlooking the pond. Unfortunately, only 2 of the 44 sites really have a view of the pond. The Lomond Campground, located about 10 miles from Route 430, has great views of Bonne Bay and the Long Range Mountains.

Travelogue

Acadia was not in our original itinerary for this trip, but when we saw that it was only 40 miles off of I95, we quickly changed our route and plans—Acadia is not the kind of place you want to just blow right by. Knowing how busy Bar Harbor can get in the summer, we made reservations for 2 nights at the Bar Harbor KOA (previously called Barcadia). The campground had a great location, just minutes outside the park, and right on Western Bay. Fortunately we were able to reserve one of the oceanfront sites—a bit pricey (about $50 a night), but well worth it. The views were marvelous, especially during low tide when the rocky shoreline and tidal pools were exposed.

Family on SummitWe arrived quite early in the day, because of our decision to drive all the way to Augusta the previous night, so we had a whole day ahead of us to enjoy the park. Our first stop was the visitor center, where a knowledgeable ranger told us about a great hike with lots of rock scrambling, exposed cliffs, and spectacular views—the Beehive.

We headed out on the Park Loop Road to Sand Beach, which was near the trailhead for the Beehive hike. Before starting out on our trek up the mountain, which incidentally did look very much like a beehive, we headed down to check out the beach. It was quite crowded and there were even some very brave souls swimming in the frigid waters. Although it was quite nice, we all agreed that we liked the beach much better the last time we were here, but that was a very different situation. In the winter of 1999, as part of our first winter RVing experience, we camped in the Blackwoods Campground in the park, and the kids learned to cross country ski on the trails along this beautiful rocky coastline. Our memory of this beach from that trip is one of complete and total solitude with only our tracks disturbing its pristine snow.

Hiking the Beehive TrailAlthough having Acadia to yourself in the winter is an unforgettable experience, there’s a lot to be said for summers here as well. The sun was out, the day was warm, and we were ready to take on the Beehive.

What a terrific hike!—however, not one for the acrophobic. It started off with some basic rock scrambling and gradually worked itself up to some pretty hairy sections where we had to grab onto metal handles fixed into the rock to climb up or traverse across exposed cliffs. I must confess to using more parts of my body than necessary to deal with some of the more difficult sections. In less than a half hour, we reached the 520 foot summit where the views of Sand Beach and the ocean beyond were stunning—well worth the palm sweating it took to get here.

Rather than retrace our steps, we decided to go down the back way along the Bowl Trail. Everything was going along just fine until I heard Andrew, who was hiking behind me, yell, “Mom, look out!” and heard the distinct sound of something rolling down the hill. For some unexplained reason, I didn’t turn around to see what was happening, but just froze in place—legs planted to the ground. The next thing I experienced was extreme pain as a boulder (or large rock as Andrew prefers to tell it) about the size of a basketball smashed into the back of my Achilles tendon. I saw stars. “Poor Andrew!” I thought. This wasn’t the first time he had taken me out with a rock on vacation (see Olympic National Park, 2001). He felt terrible. A rock on the trail had come loose when he stepped on it and zeroed in on me as its target. My ankle was already swelling up and turning colors by the time I limped back to the RV.

View from the Beehive TrailAs we sat in the RV with ice on my ankle, we all wondered the same thing—What was this going to do to our trip? After all, we were only 2 days into a 3 ½ week adventure and our vacations are always centered around active stuff. What if something was seriously wrong with my foot? I was starting to feel pretty depressed. What if I couldn’t run anymore?

Thinking that was the end of any more activity at least for that day, Herb suggested heading back to the campground. “Oh, no,” I said. It was going to take a lot more than this to stop me. I might not be able to walk, but I could still ride a bike. Not totally convinced that this was a wise idea, Herb continued on the Park Loop Road to Eagle Lake where we had been told about a nice bike ride. After a little struggle getting my sneaker over my now swollen ankle, I was able to bike the 6 miles of carriage roads around the lake without too much difficulty. It was very pretty and I felt much better knowing that my vacation wasn’t totally ruined.

That night back at the campground, Herb and I relaxed with a glass of wine on the rocks by the beach while the boys pedaled madly around the campground in little rental go-carts. To each his own. We waited for the sun to set over Western Bay before letting the bugs and the cool night air chase us inside. It really was an incredible location.

Brotherly love during Western Bay boat tripThe next morning we arose early to start the process of inflating our 12-foot Avon inflatable raft, which we intended to use to explore Western Bay. This silly little raft, which when not being used lives in a big bag at the foot of the kid’s bed over the cab, has provided us with some of our most wonderful vacation experiences. With it, we have explored the Pictured Rocks along Lake Superior, cruised along Lake Powell and the Flaming Gorge Reservoir, rafted down the Snake and Colorado Rivers, and much more. It has definitely earned the space it takes up in the RV. To propel the raft, we bring along a 6 hp motor, which we attach to a support Herb built by the back ladder of the RV when not in use.

As we putted out into the bay, there were a fair number of people watching us—I’m not sure if they thought we were nuts or whether they were just envious. Probably a little bit of both. We headed east under the bridge that connects Mount Desert Island with the mainland and found a secluded island to have lunch on. Just as we were commenting how great it was to have this whole island to ourselves, a group of about 10 kayaks rounded the corner and shouted, “Mind if we share?” Of course we minded, but what could we say? Pretending that we were just getting ready to leave anyway, we shoved off and found another secluded island. This time it was gnats rather than kayakers that chased us off.

We came across some local fisherman digging for mussels and clams in the sand now exposed by the receding tide. They warned us that if we didn’t go quickly, we wouldn’t have enough water to get back under the bridge to our campground and would have to wait for the tide to come back in. Heeding their advice, we quickly set off carefully looking over the sides for rocks. During our cruise back, we had the good fortune to follow a school of dolphins leaping playfully in the water.

The trip was quite relaxing and the scenery was beautiful, but I think that the boys would have had a much better time if they could have gone swimming. The water was just too darn cold. I tried to reassure them that the water would actually get warmer as we traveled north into Canada, but I don’t think they believed me. But it’s true. Because of the gulf stream, the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence are as warm as the waters off of Virginia and the Carolinas. I sure hope the guide books are right.

After dinner that evening, we bought a blueberry pie from a couple in an old VW Beetle that drove around the campground each night selling pies. It was absolutely the best pie we had ever had—practically overflowing with fresh Maine blueberries. I wish we had bought some more.

Description

Acadia National Park, located on the rugged coast of Maine, encompasses 45,000 acres of mountains, forests, lakes, and rocky coastline. Most of Acadia is on Mt. Desert (pronounced "dessert") Island, with some other bits of the park on small islands and the Schoodic peninsula. Although Acadia is the fifth smallest national park, its 4.2 million annual visitors make it the second most highly visited park in the country.

Lolo on rocksMount Desert Island has been a popular destination since the mid-19th century when the town of Bar Harbor became a thriving summer resort community for the most prominent members of society. Families such as the Vanderbilt's, Rockefellers, Carnegies, and Astor's built elegant mansions, which they called "cottages," along its beautiful rocky coastline. For over 40 years, much of high society summered here until the Great Depression and World War II ended such extravagant living. The real end came to society life here when the Great Fire of 1947 destroyed numerous hotels and more than 70 mansions.

Fortunately, the wealthy inhabitants of Bar Harbor loved the natural beauty around them and donated land, time, and money so that this land could be preserved for future generations to enjoy. Thanks to the untiring efforts of George B. Dorr, in 1919 Acadia became the first national park east of the Mississippi River. It was actually called Lafayette National Park at that time, but in 1929 the name was changed to Acadia.

BeehiveThe 45 miles of carriage roads throughout the park were the gift of another summer resident and philanthropist, John D. Rockefeller, Jr. He loved the park and wanted to create a way for people to enjoy its beauty by horse and carriage, rather than by motorcar. Rockefeller, who had a gifted eye for landscape architecture, constructed the roads in such as way as to take best advantage of the park's beauty. Today these carriage roads are a wonderful way to explore the park, both on foot and by bike. Also, in the winter, they are ideal for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.

In addition to the carriage roads, there are over 120 miles of hiking trails, many of which have spectacular ocean and woodland views. Most of the hikes in the park are fairly short to moderate. One very exhilarating and scenic hike is the Beehive trail, which starts just north of the Sand Beach upper parking lot. The hike is not for those with a fear of heights, as it requires using a series of fixed metal handles to climb up steep trails and traverse across exposed cliffs. However, the stunning view of Sand Beach and the ocean beyond make the struggle worthwhile. It takes about 30 minutes to get to the 520 foot summit.

One of the longest trails in the park is the 7.4 mile (round trip) hike to the summit of Cadillac Mountain. The Cadillac Mountain South Ridge Trail starts just south of the entrance to the Blackwoods Campground, climbs through the woods for awhile, and then cuts above the treeline as it approaches the summit. The trail, which rises 1,340 feet in 3.7 miles, is fairly strenuous.

By car, the best way to see the major sights in the park is to drive the 27-mile Park Loop Road (which includes a 7-mile round trip up Cadillac Mountain). In summer time, the road becomes extremely crowded, so it pays to get an early start. The road is one-way in a clockwise direction, with the exception of a two-way portion near the start that allows direct access to the Cadillac Mountain Road. Some of the many interesting stops along the way include:

• Frenchman Bay Overlook - scenic views of the bay and Schoodic Peninsula
• Sand Beach - pretty beach made of crushed marine shells. Supervised swimming is available in the invigorating, chilly water.
• Thunder Hole - a narrow slot in the rocks along the coast named for the roaring sound produced when trapped air is squeezed out of a chasm by the incoming surf
• Otter Point - tidal pools to explore (an hour or two before low tide)
• Wildwood Stables - wagon rides on the carriage roads
• Jordon Pond House - meals and traditional tea on lawn
• Cadillac Mountain - 3.5 mile switchback road to the summit, which is the highest point on the eastern seaboard north of Brazil

There are two campgrounds within the park boundaries--Blackwoods, which is open all year round, and Seawall, which is only open in the summer. Although there are not many facilities in the park, there are numerous restaurants, shops, hotels, campgrounds, etc., in the nearby resort community of Bar Harbor.