Travelogue

Herb's favorite poolHerb sensed that I wasn’t totally keen on camping in the 4Runner, so we decided that we would alternate between motels and camping.

Since the first day was mostly a driving one to get across to the other side of the Sierras, we decided to find a motel in Bridgeport, as that would set us up as a great place to start an exploration south.

I did some internet searching and was surprised to find how expensive motels were in the Bridgeport to Lee Vining area. All I wanted was a clean bed to sleep in that gave me more than a 4-inch clearance above my face. Oh, and a toilet and shower would be nice too.

I started making phone calls to inquire about availability and pricing for a Friday night. My most intriguing call was to the Bodie Hotel, right on Main Street in Bridgeport. The woman that answered the phone must have been at least 100 - probably a prospector’s wife during Bodie’s heyday. I just couldn’t seem to get an answer from her as to whether she had a room available. I think her concern was that it was opening day for deer hunting and she was hesitant to give away a room for only one night of a weekend. The conversation went on for a good 20 minutes while she hemmed and hawed about whether this was a good business decision for her. I remained silent on the other end, waiting for her to work things out in her mind.

Herb relaxing in Room #9Finally, she told me that she could give me Room #9 (as if I was supposed to know the significance of that), where she told me that one whole wall of that room was covered by a mural of Bodie before it was a ghost town, done by a famous artist. Before officially offering me the room for $100, she suggested strongly that I eat a meal next door in the Sportsmen’s Bar and Grill, because her son owned it and could use the business. She then concluded her marketing presentation with, “I just want you to know, this ain’t the Ritz Carlton!” I was sold, if only just to meet this woman in person.

To my dismay, when we arrived around 3:00 on Friday afternoon, a hotel clerk greeted us rather than the owner. To our further dismay, he was unable to locate the key for the infamous Room #9 and said that the owner, who was not on the premises, probably had it. We agreed to come back in two hours - we wanted to go to Travertine Hot Spring anyway - by which time he was pretty confident he could get us into our room.

Lolo of TravertineThere are many natural hot springs in the Eastern Sierras, but I think Travertine is one of the prettiest. The main three pools are fed from water trickling over the ridge of a colorful rock formation that rises above them. The beautiful tan, cream and rust colors of the rock are the result of a form of limestone, called “travertine” that is deposited by the mineral-laden hot springs. The water flows from one pool to the next decreasing in temperature as it goes along. The first pool is about 105 degrees, while the last, which is the largest and shallowest, is only about 90 degrees.

However, these three pools are the most popular and often quite crowded. Herb’s favorite is a more primitive pool, just a short walk beyond the main pools, set in a rather geothermically active field. This one you are pretty much guaranteed to have to yourself. In fact, Herb had it totally to himself, because I was too cold to take off my down jacket. Instead, I just enjoyed the wonderful views of the Sierra looming over the town of Bridgeport below.

Queen of TravertineFeeling we had given the hotel clerk sufficient time to track down the key to our room, we returned and were let into the intriguing Room #9. It did not disappoint. I couldn’t remember the last time I had seen red shag carpeting. As promised, a huge moral depicting the main street of the Gold Rush town of Bodie covered the entire wall, drawing us in to a different place and time. It was quaint, but I had serious doubts as to the fame of its artist.

The room also had some beautiful antique collectibles and furnishings. It was all a bit odd -a little bit of a 19th-century brothel vibe -, but I can see why the proprietress considered this room special. For all we knew it could have been hers as a little girl. It was definitely more interesting than staying in a chain motel.

The next morning, we dutifully headed next door to the Sportsmen’s Bar and Grill to have breakfast. It definitely lived up to the “Sportsmen” name - we were the only ones in the place not dressed in camo. The service was good and the breakfast was hearty and tasty.

Description

Bridgeport is a town located along the scenic Eastern Sierra Byway, about 25 miles north of Lee Vining and the road to eastern entrance to Yosemite National Park. The well-known trout streams and lakes in the area attract thousands of tourists each year. It is also notable for its Travertine Hot Springs as well as its proximity to Bodie State Historical Park.

Travertine Hot Springs (Bridgeport)

Geothermal field at Travertine Hot SpringsThere are many natural hot springs in the Sierras, but the Travertine Hot Springs are one of the prettiest and the easiest to get to. They are located just south of the town of Bridgeport along Route 395. To reach the springs, turn onto Jack Sawyer Road, then left again onto a marked, but somewhat rutted, dirt road.

There are several pools at Travertine. Right next to the parking area is a developed pool, which is the hottest of the pools in the area. There were even rugs placed around it to cushion the hard surface.

A short way down the trail are the lower three pools, which are fed from water trickling over the ridge of a colorful rock formation that rises above them. The beautiful tan, cream and rust colors of the rock are the result of a form of limestone, called “travertine” that is deposited by the mineral-laden hot springs. The water flows from one pool to the next decreasing in temperature as it goes along. The first pool is about 105 degrees, while the last, which is the largest and shallowest, is only about 90 degrees.

A little past the main pools there are a few more primitive pools that are much more private. The whole area around the springs is very active geothermally, and new springs are continuously erupting.

There are wonderful views of the Sierras while you bathe in one of its pools, sitting along a rocky ledge or in the mud that lines their bottoms. The mud is slightly sulfuric and soothing to the skin.

The area is designated “clothing optional,” but most people wear bathing suits.